Gothic skull col­lar

Simply Crochet - - HOOK TO HOOK -

Sylvia Mar­garet's Vic­to­rian-in­spired neck­lace is just the right bal­ance of fancy and freaky, don't you think? The cash­mere blend is su­per soft on the neck. Deb­bie Bliss Baby Cash­merino (55% wool, 12% cash­mere, 33% acrylic, 50g/120m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A White (100) Yarn B Black (300) Yarn C Mint (003) Yarn D Or­ange (092) A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Stitch mark­ers

MEA­SURE­MENTS

Ap­prox 32x12.5cm (12 ½ x5in) with­out ties

ABBREVIATIONS

Pi­cot Ch3, ss in 3rd ch from hook

SKULL MO­TIF !MAKE 3"

The Skull mo­tif is worked in rounds around the Eyes and then the Jaw is added in rows work­ing back and forth.

EYES

Us­ing Yarn A, ch10, ss to 10th ch from hook, ch10, ss to 10th ch from hook, this will cre­ate 2 loops in a fig­ure of 8.

Round 1 Ss into first loop of fig­ure of 8 (does not count as st), 16dc in loop, ss into next loop, 16dc in sec­ond loop, ss to first dc to join.

Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next st, htr in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts, (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts) twice, ch3, skip 5 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts, (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts) twice, htr in next st, tr in next st, ss to 3rd ch of be­gin­ning ch-3 to join.

Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 7 sts, 3htr in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, place marker in last st made, htr in each of next 2 sts, 3htr in ch-3 sp, htr in each of next 4 sts, 3htr in next st, dc in each of next 7 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in last st, ss to 3rd ch of be­gin­ning ch-3 to join. Fas­ten off.

JAW

Row 1 Join yarn in the first stitch af­ter marker (do not re­move marker), ch5, skip next st, dtr in each of next 4 sts, ch5, skip next st, ss in next st, turn.

Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 5 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in each of next 4 dtr, 5dc in next ch-5 sp, ss back into same dc in Round 3. Fas­ten off.

BOR­DER

Round 1 With RS fac­ing, join Yarn B in marked st, leav­ing marker in place for join­ing rounds, ch1 (does not count as st through­out), dc in same st, ch3, skip next st, (dc in next st, ch3, skip next st) 21 times, ss to first dc to join.

Fas­ten off. [22 dc and 22 ch-3 sps] Round 2 Join Yarn C in any ch-3 space, ch1, dc in same sp, ch3, (dc in next ch-3 sp, ch3) 21 times, ss to first dc to join.

Fas­ten off. [22 dc and 22 ch-3 sps]

JOIN­ING MO­TIFS FIRST MO­TIF

Round 1 (RS) Join Yarn B with a ss to the ch-3 sp in Round 2 of Bor­der di­rectly above st marker, (ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp) 12 times, (ch2, pi­cot, ch2, ss in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, (ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp) 7 times, work­ing last ss into first ss.

SEC­OND MO­TIF

Round 1 (RS) Join Yarn B with a ss to the ch-3 sp in Round 2 of Bor­der di­rectly above the st marker, (ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp) 12 times, (ch2, pi­cot, ch2, ss in next ch-3 sp) 4 times, ch1, ss to ch-3 sp be­fore pi­cot on first mo­tif, ch1, ss in the next ch-3 sp on sec­ond mo­tif, (ch1, ss to ad­ja­cent ch-3 sp on first mo­tif, ch1, ss in next ch-3 sp on sec­ond mo­tif) 3 times, (ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp) twice, work­ing the last ss into the first ss.

THIRD MO­TIF

Round 1 (RS) Join Yarn B with a ss to the ch-3 sp in Round 2 of Bor­der di­rectly above

st marker, (ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp) 12 times, (ch2, pi­cot, ch2, ss in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, ch1, ss to ch-3 sp be­fore pi­cot on first mo­tif, ch1, ss in next ch-3 sp on sec­ond mo­tif, (ch1, ss to ad­ja­cent ch-3 sp on first mo­tif, ch1, ss in next ch-3 sp on sec­ond mo­tif) 3 times, (ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, work­ing last ss into first ss.

BOR­DER

Row 1 With RS fac­ing join Yarn D in first ss af­ter pi­cot at outer edge of mo­tifs to work around the bot­tom edge of the mo­tifs, ch3, ss in next ch-3 sp, (ch4, ss into next ch-3 sp) 14 times, ch3, dc into sp be­low ss join, ch3, ss into next ch-3 sp on next mo­tif, (ch4, ss into next ch-3 sp) 9 times, ch3, dc into sp be­low ss join, ch3, ss into next ch-3 sp on next mo­tif, (ch4, ss into next ch-3 sp) 14 times, ch3, ss into next ss, turn.

Row 2 (WS) Ch5, skip ch-3 sp, ss in next ch- 4 sp, (ch5, ss into next ch- 4 sp) 13 times, ch2, skip ch-3 sp, tr in next dc be­tween mo­tifs, ch2, skip ch-3 sp, ss into next ch- 4 sp, (ch5, ss into next ch- 4 sp) 8 times, ch2, skip ch-3 sp, tr in next dc be­tween mo­tifs, ch2, skip ch-3 sp, ss into next ch- 4 sp, (ch5, ss into next ch- 4 sp) 13 times, ch5, ss into last ss. Fas­ten off. Row 3 With WS fac­ing join Yarn B in first ch-sp of Row 2, (ch6, ss into next ch-sp) 13 times, ch3, skip ch-2 sp, tr in tr be­tween mo­tifs, ch3, skip ch-2 sp, ss into next ch-5 sp, (ch6, ss into next ch-sp) 7 times, ch3, skip ch-2 sp, tr in tr be­tween mo­tifs, ch3, skip ch-2 sp, ss into next ch-5 sp, (ch6, ss into next ch-sp) 13 times, turn.

Row 4 (RS) Ch1, ss into first ch- 6 sp, (ch6, ss into next ch-sp) 12 times, *ch3, tr in next ch-3 sp, ch5, ss into 5th ch from hook, skip tr, tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, ss into next ch- 6 sp, (ch6, ss into next ch-sp) 6 times; re­peat from * once more, (ch6, ss into next ch-sp) 6 times.

Fas­ten off and weave in ends.

TIES

You can now add a neck­lace chain or rib­bon to com­plete; al­ter­na­tively, you can make cro­chet ties as fol­lows: Join Yarn B in the ch-3 sp at the start of Row 1, dc in same sp, ch60 (make as long as you wish to al­ter size/fit), ss into sec­ond ch from hook and each ch across back to dc. Fas­ten off. Re­peat same process in the ch-3 sp at other end of Row 1.

BLOCK­ING

Lay the col­lar out flat and pin into shape, dampen and/or steam and al­low to dry.

Psst Loopy roun!" give a lacy ef­fect

Clock­wise from above left: a look in­side Sylvia's sketch­book at her con­cept for this fancy skull col­lar de­sign; look closer and you'll see a trio of pale skull mo­tifs, worked from the eyes out­wards; the col­lar fas­tens at the back with two chain lengths, or you could add chain or rib­bon in­stead.

Clock­wise from left: Jack-o'-lan­tern pom­poms, bulging eye­balls and even a spi­der – this de­light­fully bonkers Hal­loween crown has it all; a work-in-progress shot of the Band sec­tion of the de­sign, pho­to­graph by Miki Hem­phill; when work­ing the eye­balls, leave a long tail for sewing.

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