HIGH SO­CI­ETY

You don’t have to be a su­per-rich so­cialite to en­joy this kind of

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Delicious. On Sunday Eat Out -

THE HAMP­TONS BAK­ERY: RE­VIEWED BY ME­GAN MILLER

THE Hamp­tons, take me back. No, not New York’s A-list re­treat – the new bay­side bak­ery is where it’s at. De­scend at dawn for cof­fee and warm take­away pas­tries, or linger longer for brunch or lunch. Cobb Lane’s re­spected pas­try chef Matt Forbes helped train the bak­ers. You’ll wres­tle with eclairs, dan­ishes, cook­ies and brown­ies, be­fore set­tling on per­haps a salted caramel tart or a cof­fee choux bomb.

Eat­ing in? The lemon and ri­cotta hot­cakes, a stack of three nes­tled with cin­na­mon-specked yo­ghurt, with a poached pear rolled in se­same seeds and dried-rasp­berry crack­ers for crunch and colour, are as art­ful as they are ap­petis­ing. Good­ness also lands on a plate with the rosti, a puck of mashed po­tato and broc­coli with a poached egg and ten­der broc­col­ini and kale.

Else­where, the menu goes jet-set, to the Mid­dle East with moghra­bieh (pearl cous­cous), pome­gran­ate and tahini labne adding zest to a slow-cooked lamb salad; to Italy with hand-rolled gnoc­chi with gar­den greens, pecorino and pine nuts; and State­side with a Kansas-style, slow-braised, pork neck sand­wich.

A liquor li­cence is pend­ing and Fri­day burger nights are in the works.

The Hamp­tons is the lat­est ven­ture of the Tommy Collins Group, which is be­hind The Lit­tle Ox and Hawk & Hunter (both now sold), as well as Sch­mucks Bagels and Sth Cen­tral. The bak­ery has an ap­peal­ing, eclectic and thor­oughly modern fit-out – all Scandi-chic blond wood, cool curves, glossy sub­way tiles, mir­rors and lots of hang­ing green­ery.

But for all its love­li­ness, noise is a prob­lem here, and con­vers­ing in this bustling 90-seater is chal­leng­ing. Not that the lo­cals, school-run mums and cafe tourists seem to mind. Un­like the ritzy des­ti­na­tion, this is a Hamp­tons every­one can en­joy.

3.5/5 427 Hamp­ton St, Hamp­ton the­hamp­tons­bak­ery. com.au From top: the Scandi-style in­te­rior, lemon curd meringue tart, and the lemon and ri­cotta hot­cakes.

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