You don’t have to be a super-rich socialite to enjoy this kind of
THE HAMPTONS BAKERY: REVIEWED BY MEGAN MILLER
THE Hamptons, take me back. No, not New York’s A-list retreat – the new bayside bakery is where it’s at. Descend at dawn for coffee and warm takeaway pastries, or linger longer for brunch or lunch. Cobb Lane’s respected pastry chef Matt Forbes helped train the bakers. You’ll wrestle with eclairs, danishes, cookies and brownies, before settling on perhaps a salted caramel tart or a coffee choux bomb.
Eating in? The lemon and ricotta hotcakes, a stack of three nestled with cinnamon-specked yoghurt, with a poached pear rolled in sesame seeds and dried-raspberry crackers for crunch and colour, are as artful as they are appetising. Goodness also lands on a plate with the rosti, a puck of mashed potato and broccoli with a poached egg and tender broccolini and kale.
Elsewhere, the menu goes jet-set, to the Middle East with moghrabieh (pearl couscous), pomegranate and tahini labne adding zest to a slow-cooked lamb salad; to Italy with hand-rolled gnocchi with garden greens, pecorino and pine nuts; and Stateside with a Kansas-style, slow-braised, pork neck sandwich.
A liquor licence is pending and Friday burger nights are in the works.
The Hamptons is the latest venture of the Tommy Collins Group, which is behind The Little Ox and Hawk & Hunter (both now sold), as well as Schmucks Bagels and Sth Central. The bakery has an appealing, eclectic and thoroughly modern fit-out – all Scandi-chic blond wood, cool curves, glossy subway tiles, mirrors and lots of hanging greenery.
But for all its loveliness, noise is a problem here, and conversing in this bustling 90-seater is challenging. Not that the locals, school-run mums and cafe tourists seem to mind. Unlike the ritzy destination, this is a Hamptons everyone can enjoy.