IN­SIDER The lat­est news VE­GAN IS NOT A DIRTY WORD re­views

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Delicious. On Sunday - BY ME­GAN MILLER Hardie Grant, $48, out on No­vem­ber 1.

GOR­DON Ram­say reck­ons he’s al­ler­gic to them, An­thony Bour­dain fa­mously com­pared them to a “Hezbol­lah-like splin­ter fac­tion”, and only last month, high-pro­file Ital­ian chef Gian­franco Vis­sani de­clared he’d like to “kill them all”.

Mo Wyse and Shan­non Martinez know ve­gan is a dirty word. But the mas­ter­minds be­hind Mel­bourne ve­gan mecca, Smith & Daugh­ters, are rev­o­lu­tion­is­ing plant-based eat­ing be­yond the pleather-wear­ing hip­pie stereo­type.

They say about 80 per cent of din­ers at their Fitzroy restau­rant aren’t ve­gan and many don’t even re­alise they’re eat­ing veg­e­tar­ian dishes.

Opened in 2014, the 70-seater was an in­stant hit and within a year spawned spin-off Smith & Deli, of­fer­ing ve­gan “meats” and sand­wiches. Now, the tat­tooed tal­ents, who met in 2012 at Colling­wood’s Peo­ple’s Mar­ket (Wyse was op­er­a­tions man­ager, chef Martinez ran its ve­gan food truck), have re­leased a cook­book.

Smith & Daugh­ters: A Cook­book (That Hap­pens To Be Ve­gan) fea­tures Wyse’s words and recipes for about 80 of Martinez’s big-flavoured Latin Amer­i­can-lean­ing dishes that have wowed din­ers, such as the gar­lic “prawns”, the break­fast bur­rito, “crab cakes” with mango salsa, and Span­ish dough­nuts. “It’s an­other piece in the puz­zle for us,” Martinez says. “Peo­ple ask for recipes and I was al­ways re­luc­tant to give them away be­cause they’re unique and it’s taken me a long time to per­fect them all. It’s like giv­ing away your ba­bies in a way, but it’s a good time to start shar­ing.”

Wyse says she hopes the book fur­ther smashes pre­con­cep­tions of ve­gan food as bor­ing. She turned ve­gan on her 16th birth­day for eth­i­cal rea­sons. Martinez, on the other hand, is not ve­gan, some­thing mil­i­tant meat dodgers find con­tro­ver­sial.

“We’ve de­signed a place where ve­g­ans can bring friends and know ev­ery­one will have a pos­i­tive ex­pe­ri­ence and maybe say, ‘Ve­gan food isn’t so bad’ or, ‘If I could eat this way all the time, I’d go ve­gan’,” says Wyse. “We hear that daily, which is the high­est com­pli­ment.” Smith & Daugh­ters: A Cook­book (That Hap­pens to be Ve­gan),

LONGRAIN

be able to book, but this CBD stal­wart still

DY­NAMIC DUO Mo Wyse and Shan­non Martinez of Smith & Daugh­ters.

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