SEA­SON PASS

diner is de­light­ing its pa­trons with a lit­tle spring­time sun­shine

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Eat Out -

SPRING & SUM­MER: RE­VIEWED BY ME­GAN MILLER

MEL­BOURNE might be fa­mous for its four sea­sons in one day, but in St Kilda there are only two that you need to know about.

Spring & Sum­mer is a new Asian diner that’s trans­formed a gloomy for­mer Ir­ish pub into a bright and breezy split-level din­ing room with seat­ing for 50.

The menu draws on head chef and co-owner Peera­sut “Golf” Lao­vanich’s Thai her­itage and three years work­ing at hot spots Chin Chin, Kong BBQ and Hawker Hall. He also brings in some Korean, Ja­panese, Sin­ga­porean and Malaysian flavours with im­pres­sive bal­ance and har­mony.

Open with king­fish sashimi that’s on par with the town’s best – sup­ple sliv­ers of fish doused in a co­conut cream and a perky green nam jim sauce. Or try the charred corn cobs draped in gochu­jang Korean chilli paste and smoked ched­dar for a juicy, lip-tin­gling mood-setter.

The beef pad see ew is a smokysweet wok-kissed tan­gle of ten­der wagyu pieces and rolled-up parcels of rice noo­dles that’s mem­o­rable long af­ter the bowl is scooped clean. Ditto for the pa­paya salad heaped with slices of ten­der pork belly and topped with curls of crack­ling.

Or if you want some fire, you can’t go past the sir­loin beef jun­gle curry.

Drinks run to a tight, well-priced wine list, a de­cent as­sort­ment of qual­ity beers and a selec­tion of cool cock­tails like the rum-soaked Full Moon Party, or the Thai-in­spired Le­mon­grass Mo­jito.

Well-drilled and happy staff serve food here that hits that crit­i­cal tem­plate of heat, sweet, sour and salty in vi­brant, well-crafted and ut­terly de­lec­ta­ble dishes. En­joy the fun. ’ Tis the sea­son.

192 Barkly St, St Kilda springand­sum­mer. com.au

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