ADULTS ONLY

evokes Man­hat­tan style. Yep, this is a place for the grown-ups

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Eat Out -

BOU­VIER BAR: RE­VIEWED BY DAN STOCK

IT TAKES me a mo­ment to re­alise what’s miss­ing from Bou­vier, a dark, mood­ily stylish bar in the beat­ing heart of hip East Brunswick.

And then it hits – there’s not a beard in sight. There’s a cou­ple of tradies drink­ing white wine over here, a quar­tet of chunky jew­ellery sip­ping mar­ti­nis over there, and var­i­ous datenight duos drop­ping by for a bite and a tip­ple. We’re all over 30 and can hear our­selves think over the mu­sic. Plus, we seem to be as ex­cited about what we’re eat­ing as what we’re drink­ing. Call it the joys of adult­hood.

It’s just one of the wel­come sur­prises that Adrian Richard­son – of La Luna in Carl­ton and var­i­ous TV shows – has in store at his new bar that chan­nels Up­per East Side Man­hat­tan style.

Sim­ple, un­pre­ten­tious and rak­ish in charm, there are stools by the bar for a bit of ban­ter with the staff and ta­bles at the back for a quiet tete-a-tete.

It’s where the booze is good – worldly wines join $10 pints of Fur­phy on tap and blood or­ange mar­gar­i­tas – and the food, even bet­ter.

There’ll be a more ex­ten­sive menu once the kitchen is prop­erly fired up, but for now gar­lic prawns be­tween but­tered white bread toasted crisp makes for a great snack, as does a ched­dar-heavy roast beef and onion jam num­ber. Both come with pick­led onions so good they al­most over­shadow the main event. Fen­nel­spiked sugo-swim­ming meat­balls and gnoc­chi take care of heartier hungers, while char­cu­terie and cheese is ex­pect­edly ex­cel­lent.

With dark walls bright­ened by huge bou­quets of fresh flow­ers, linen nap­kins, hefty cut­lery and ta­ble ser­vice with charm, Bou­vier is a bar for adults, by adults, from a class op­er­a­tor. But just be­cause we’re grown up, doesn’t mean we’re old – there’s a 3am li­cence, and it gets put to good use.

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