BOTTOMS UP

Asian-style set menu de­liv­ers dish af­ter dish of decadant treats

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Delicious -

GINGER­BOY: RE­VIEWED BY ME­GAN MILLER

SPINAL Tap sung about them, now Ginger­boy is flaunt­ing theirs.

Since Septem­ber, chef Teage Ezard’s up­mar­ket hawker haunt has been of­fer­ing Big Bot­tom(less) Sun­days. It’s the first time in its 10-year his­tory that Ginger­boy has rolled out of bed on a Sun­day, but Ezard says it was an easy de­ci­sion to chan­nel Los An­ge­les and New York in their brunch­ing ways to meet de­mand for week­end din­ing op­tions in the CBD.

You’ll chop­stick through 11 panAsian dishes from a set menu, the bot­tom­less bit com­ing from the booze – a steady sup­ply of Chan­don sparkling, ei­ther straight up or in mi­mosas or yuzu belli­nis. The full pack­age is $98, but food only is $63. And do book.

This is no smash-and-grab, in-and­out yum cha. Sit­tings are two hours, (though ours bor­dered on three which felt way too long).

Each plate was bold and bal­anced when it fi­nally lobbed, de­but­ing with tom kha, a creamy luxe Thai co­conut soup with fresh tofu pieces. Other high­lights were rich and silky ox­cheek pot­sticker dumplings, szechuan spiced pork bao tem­pered with onion jam and pick­led cu­cum­ber, and fra­grant sticky rice thick with chicken and lap cheong (Chi­nese pork sausage).

Fin­ish on a sweet note with the deca­dent dessert plat­ter of five mini treats. Wage spoon wars over a rhubarb and straw­berry crum­ble with five-spice anglaise, a white choco­late tamarind par­fait, pan­dan mousse, co­conut car­damom panna cotta and a steamed gin­ger pud­ding with spiced cream.

And af­ter all those bub­bles, Grav­ity Espresso takes care of the cof­fee.

Whether it’s restora­tive or just be­cause, brunch at this laneway lovely might be ex­pen­sive but makes it easy like Sun­day morn­ing. Just be ready to set­tle in.

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