REVIEW

South Yarra’s Wil­son & Mar­ket Cafe.

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Contents - WIL­SON & MAR­KET CAFE: RE­VIEWED BY MEGAN MILLER

BRASSERIE by night and cafe and take­away win­dow by day, Paul Wil­son’s long-awaited multi-part ven­ture at the Prahran Mar­ket has fi­nally been re­alised.

You can see the Bri­tish-born gun chef fir­ing off gor­geous and clas­sic fare like trout with dev­illed egg or a smoked whole roast chook at his posh brassiere, with the “life­style cafe” hap­pily af­forded the same smart ap­proach.

Top-notch pro­duc­ers are the name of the game here. Bread is from Wood­frog Bak­ery, eggs are from Daylesford’s Real Eggs while An­drew’s Choice pro­vides the black pud­ding and sausage.

Black cut­lery and linen table­cloths set the re­fined tone, but this is no trussed-up ex­pe­ri­ence. Go a proper English fry-up for two or get that chook in a rib-stick­ing ri­bol­lita soup with cavolo nero.

The day-time menu is a lit­tle in­co­her­ent but un­der sig­na­ture break­fasts, you’ll find the pan­cake. It’s threaded with seaweed for salty tang, and topped with a per­fectly poached egg be­side a tranche of house-smoked ocean trout so lush and flaky it’s a plea­sure to eat. Sub­tle horse­rad­ish cream and pick­led cu­cum­ber add depth and de­light to this stand­out dish.

Served in a heavy-duty ramekin, the eggs en co­cotte falls be­tween risotto and baked eggs. Set in a savoury meld of just-ten­der farro and wild mush­rooms, the eggs are off­set with a sprin­kle of creamy goat’s cheese and fried sage leaves for crunch. It’s won­der­fully hearty and nour­ish­ing in the thick of a Mel­bourne win­ter.

Milk cof­fee is an or­ange-tinged cus­tom blend from St Ali.

The clin­i­cal din­ing room and art­work won’t please ev­ery­one, but the food is almighty at this one-stop shop where bold and beau­ti­ful flavours reign. Must visit.

From top: smoked Pe­tuna ocean trout and dev­illed egg, a sunny spot for win­ter graz­ing.

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