Ja­panese con­cept bar, Boso­zoku.

Get in touch with your in­ner wild child at this Ja­panese con­cept bar, where ev­ery part of the ex­pe­ri­ence is un­apolo­get­i­cally on theme

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Contents - 34A Bray St, South Yarra, boso­zokuhq.com.

BOSO­ZOKU: RE­VIEWED BY MEGAN MILLER

A JA­PANESE bikie gang has hit the back streets of South Yarra. But don’t fret – it’s not the lat­est crime wave.

Boso­zoku is Mel­bourne’s new­est con­cept bar, named af­ter the rebel Ja­panese gang. It’s dark, grungy and un­apolo­get­i­cally on theme with mo­tor­cy­cle chan­de­liers, karaoke and Nin­tendo rooms, fire pits, Hi­tachi train seats and a dry-ice “on­sen” (a spa us­ing dry ice in­stead of wa­ter).

From the team be­hind St Kilda’s Lady Grange and The Bird Watch­ing So­ci­ety in Prahran, here the own­ers have brought to­gether their col­lec­tive love of Ja­panese cul­ture but with cheeky homage to its out­law un­der­belly.

To drink, savour a se­lec­tion of Ja­panese beers, sakés and whiskeys or choose from a killer cock­tail list led by a wasabi bloody mary or an espresso mar­tini with vanilla bean saké.

Chef To­moya Kawasaki (ex-yoku Ono Ra­men and Wabi Sabi) is turn­ing out colour­ful burg­ers with a Ja­panese twist, which can be or­dered in a bento box with gy­oza, fries or black rice in­stead of buns for gluten-dodgers.

The Road Rage is a beet­root bun loaded with thinly sliced wagyu mar­i­nated in teriyaki sauce, with basil mayo and salad. It’s hearty, but the bun could be fresher and the meat less mushy. The Teriyummy chicken burger on a char­coal bun is sim­i­larly lack­ing.

Bet­ter is the gy­oza – bronze and plump as they should be – and the karaage chicken with its ex­cel­lent crunch and juicy chook.

Ku­dos for orig­i­nal­ity at this am­bi­tious 200-seater, but it’s a bit of a case of style over sub­stance, es­pe­cially given the fierce com­pe­ti­tion for burg­ers around Mel­bourne.

That said, how­ever, in the true spirit of re­bel­lion, dust off your leathers and rev your en­gines for a night on the wild side.

FROM TOP ‘Die By The Sword’

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