RE­VIEW

It may not be at the sea­side, but you can get hooked on clas­sic fish and chips sa well as a few up­mar­ket flour­ishes at The Smith’s new off­shoot in Prahran

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Contents - MEGAN MILLER RE­VIEWS SMITH & CHIPS

Smith & Chips, Prahran.

SUM­MER means fish and chips, but do it mi­nus pesky sand and seag­ulls at The Smith’s new side­kick.

The Prahran pub re­opened in July af­ter a six-month, multi-mil­lion-dol­lar ren­o­va­tion, now dou­ble the size with an atrium cov­ered by a re­tractable glass roof and jun­gle green­ery.

And since Septem­ber – just like Stoke­house and The At­lantic be­fore it – it also boasts its own mod­ern fish and chip joint.

Open daily, Smith & Chips has a sep­a­rate en­trance off High St, with seat­ing at stools in­side and a high­shine in­dus­trial fit-out.

The clas­sics are there. Flake and fish of the day come either beer bat­tered or grilled, as well as good chunky chips along­side. But it is the global hit pa­rade of seafood dishes that sets this place apart.

Snap­per ce­viche is won­der­fully fresh and hum­ming with chilli to load onto tostada chips with av­o­cado, while house-made dumplings – pleated and plump with a punchy salmon and prawn mix – are a treat, swim­ming in black vine­gar and chilli oil.

Soft-shell crab is also hot stuff, en­cased in crisp tem­pura with a sprightly green chilli dress­ing.

You can get your chook fix here, too. Chilli-spiked ro­tis­serie chicken comes as a whole, half or quar­ter bird, and there’s fried Korean-style morsels swad­dled in a steamed bao bun with a spicy gochu­jang (fer­mented red chilli paste) may­on­naise.

Kids are also cov­ered with rock­ling bites or cala­mari strips served with a side of chips or salad.

Take away, or dine in and drink up from a tight list of fare-friendly South Aus­tralian drops.

Smith & Chips is a thor­oughly lat­ter-day ver­sion of the nos­tal­gic fish-and-chip shop that will hope­fully con­tinue to pass with fry­ing colours over sum­mer. And not a seag­ull or speck of sand in sight.

217 High St, Prahran, smithand­chips.co.

FROM TOP Fish and chips get an in­dus­trial, hip­ster makeover, and some of the dishes on of­fer at the Prahran eatery.

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