BISTRO BRAVO

For­get checked table­cloths and spruik­ers – Tipico is no typ­i­cal red-sauce joint, but rather a suave Ital­ian bistro where moder­nity rules but tra­di­tion is re­spected.

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - On Sunday - 242 High St, Wind­sor, tipico.mel­bourne

MEGAN MILLER RE­VIEWS TIPICO

IN THIS Ital­ian-hearted city, ex­cel­lent pizza and pasta al­ways have a place above din­ing fads and trends.

Take Wind­sor’s Tipico, a thor­oughly mod­ern Ital­ian bistro from two young guns with runs on the board – An­drea Da Como, formerly of DOC and The Builders Arms, and Marco Scal­isi, late of Ti Amo and Tokyo Tina – but where classic flavours rule and tra­di­tion is some­thing to revel in, not dis­rupt.

The fit-out is sleek, its epi­cen­tre a hulk­ing ter­razzo con­crete bar where your Ap­erol spritz, es­presso mar­tini or fruity neb­bi­olo will em­anate from.

Along­side house-made pasta and 12 piz­zas from chef Daniele Colombo’s kitchen, there are must-or­der beef and veal meat­balls topped with a fresh burst of to­mato sugo and slices of parme­san, and crisp-fried curls of cala­mari to swipe through squid-ink mayo.

Mains ex­tend to a veal cut­let with a chunky crumb or blush­ing-pink or­ganic salt­bush lamb rump with Jerusalem ar­ti­chokes.

Back to those piz­zas. The bases man­age to be at once light, crunchy and chewy, and land fab­u­lously blis­tered from the 380-de­gree oven. Ours, with broc­coli bits and juicy nubs of pork and fen­nel sausage nes­tled in creamy fior di latte, was com­fort plus.

A side dish of baby car­rots with goat’s milk yo­ghurt and sliv­ered al­monds also hit the bulls­eye.

End sweet with the choco­late mousse, its in­tense rich whip tem­pered with hazel­nut crumb, berries and bis­cuit bits, or a buf­falomilk pan­na­cotta with the sub­tle lilt of chamomile and honey.

Ser­vice is breezy yet at­ten­tive, and sparkling wa­ter is gratis. There’s also a well-con­sid­ered kids’ menu. Since open­ing in June, Tipico has been tick­ing the boxes for both style and sub­stance.

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