Pizza palace

Sunday Tasmanian - Tassie Living - - FRONT PAGE - Graeme Phillips

SFUSO, the new name for what used to be Rock­wa­ter, is the sort of ca­sual eatery many would like to have on the next cor­ner.

The food is sim­ple but fine, the ser­vice friendly and the menu and wine prices rea­son­able.

And judg­ing by an al­most full house at a re­cent mid­week din­ner and the num­ber of take­aways be­ing col­lected, Black­mans Bay lo­cals seem to have taken Sfuso to heart.

Es­pe­cially, I’m told, on Sun­day evenings when the place is packed for the reg­u­lar live mu­sic gigs.

Then, of course, sit­ting out­side on a balmy night, there’s the ocean view, the soft sound of the surf and the moon on the water to make things taste even bet­ter.

Our din­ner got off to a very good start with three de­li­cious br­uschet­tas topped with wal­nut pesto, tasty rather than tinny sun­dried to­ma­toes and boc­concini, fol­lowed by nicely cooked as­para­gus with crisped prosciutto and wal­nut crumbs in a but­ter sauce.

Then a beau­ti­fully pre­sented pizza, the base thin and prop­erly cooked with the wal­nut pesto again and each por­tion topped with a prawn and an at­trac­tive flo­ret of fetta, red onion and basil.

Fet­tuc­cine with prosciutto ‘‘ crudo’’, green peas, pars­ley and egg cream was nicely cooked and lib­er­ally sauced but could have done with a lift in flavour while, on the other hand, the strong flavours of an olive and pre­served lemon stuff­ing were per­haps bet­ter suited to a more ro­bust meat than the del­i­cacy of roasted quail.

While duck, pork and prawns as well as a num­ber of ac­com­pa­ny­ing in­gre­di­ents ap­pear in var­i­ous guises as pizza top­pings and again in the pasta mains, there’s also fresh fish of the day ocean trout on the night and a 250g grain- fed fil­let with roasted rose­mary bin­t­jes, greens and pep­per­corn or porcini jus as al­ter­na­tives.

So there’s room for im­prove­ment and per­haps a lit­tle more va­ri­ety in some of the com­bi­na­tions, some­thing the own­ers, Nana Coburn and Mat Con­boy, say they are work­ing on.

Mat has pre­vi­ously had a ca­reer in wine mar­ket­ing, most re­cently spend­ing many years work­ing with Peter Althaus and Do­main A.

A good start calls for a happy end­ing and ‘‘ He­ston’s lemon tart’’ with cream and a flour­less or­ange cake with a scoop of vanilla ice cream fol­lowed by ex­cel­lent cof­fee rounded the night off well.

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