THE BOX

Crumb Street’s smokin’ hot success story

Sunday Tasmanian - Tassie Living - - FRONT PAGE - Graeme Phillips

IRETURNED from eat­ing around New Or­leans and Mex­ico over the New Year only to find that their food had ar­rived in Ho­bart be­fore me in the form of the Taco Taco food van and the Mex- Tex Cre­ole smoke­house, Crumb Street Kitchen. First, a dis­claimer. While I loved the street ta­cos in Mex­ico, I was far less en­am­oured of the smoky, slow- cooked, pulled pork, beef and ribs that dom­i­nated the restau­rant menus and fast foods of New Or­leans.

Nor have I en­joyed most of the gummy, mushy, long- cooked and pulled- meat dishes that have in­sid­i­ously crept onto sev­eral Ho­bart menus over the past year or so.

In ad­di­tion, my food ex­pe­ri­ences in the US gen­er­ally re­in­forced my dis­taste for the grow­ing Amer­i­can­i­sa­tion of Aus­tralia’s food cul­ture.

So, it’s fair to say that I came to Crumb car­ry­ing quite a bit of bag­gage.

But – and it pleases me to be able to write that ‘ but’ – the food is much bet­ter than any­thing I tried in New Or­leans.

The meats are juicier, their smok­i­ness more re­strained, the spiced rubs are so much more flavour­some and balanced, and their sauces and ac­com­pa­ni­ments aren’t bad ei­ther.

Even more im­pres­sive is the sheer en­ergy, the in­ge­nu­ity and won­der­ful laid- back, let’shave- a- go at­ti­tude of the young own­ers, Sian King and Zac Shearer, and the story be­hind what has proved noth­ing less than a Ho­bart phe­nom­e­non.

They’re both hos­pi­tal­ity veter­ans but, af­ter a pro­longed ill­ness, they spent their last $ 200 on a com­mer­cial batch of flour, yeast and salt and started mak­ing lun­cheon rolls for a lo­cal tav­ern.

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