Di­vine del­i­ca­cies

Sunday Tasmanian - Tassie Living - - FRONT PAGE - Graeme Phillips

IDON’T know how many years, if not decades, it is since I last had lambs fry and ba­con for break­fast. And I don’t re­call ever hav­ing it with nicely dressed leaves and a fried egg on top.

Fol­lowed by fruit brioche with de­li­cious lemon curd and great cof­fee, this ex­cel­lent lit­tle cafe was my per­fect start to a chilly day a few weeks ago.

Owner/ chef Gail Sellin came to Ho­bart from Syd­ney three years ago with a CV in her pocket that in­cluded long sous- chef­ing stints with such lu­mi­nar­ies as Neil Perry and Kylie Kwong.

Af­ter a baby and 18 months at the delightful Tri­cy­cle in Sala­manca, she opened Rasp­berry Fool a year ago.

She makes and bakes ev­ery­thing her­self, from the bread, muffins and cakes to a con­stantly ro­tat­ing se­lec­tion of ex­cep­tion­ally flavour­some pies and daily of­fer­ings of soups and savoury dishes writ­ten up on a wall mir­ror.

And, like most good chefs I know, she loves of­fal.

So, in ad­di­tion to that lambs fry, the day’s savoury dish might be braised tripe or, as I en­joyed an­other time at lunch af­ter a richly warm­ing chorizo and white bean soup, a beau­ti­fully cooked and pre­sented square of crisp and melt­ing ten­der pork belly – its

rich­ness off­set by slices of pick­led quince with savoy cab­bage and glazed baby turnips from grow­ers at Salt­wa­ter River.

While pork belly dishes have be­come ubiq­ui­tous around town, this was as good as the best of them at lit­tle more than half the price.

But, if lambs fry and of­fal are not your thing, there are plenty of other at­trac­tive all- day break­fast, lunchtime and in- be­tween op­tions.

There’s ex­cel­lent house- made muesli with yo­ghurt and fruit; eggs any which way in­clud­ing three dif­fer­ent omelettes, with sides run­ning from dressed greens and smashed av­o­cado to smoky beans and black pud­ding; plus a range of cakes, slices and bis­cuits, nicely com­posed and prop­erly dressed sal­ads, toasted sand­wiches and a great se­lec­tion of what, af­ter a re­cent pie- eat­ing marathon for an­other pub­li­ca­tion, are what I con­sider to be the city’s best pies.

And it is the ex­cel­lence of the fill­ings for those toasted sand­wiches and pies

There’s a great se­lec­tion of what, af­ter a re­cent pie- eat­ing marathon for an­other pub­li­ca­tion, are what I con­sider to be the city’s best pies

that, per­haps more than any­thing else, demon­strates Sellin’s sure touch with flavours and sets Rasp­berry Fool apart from most other cafes around the city.

Sand­wiches with pump­kin, goats curd, beet­root, rocket and herb mayo; zuc­chini, lemon ri­cotta, herb salsa and greens; or Gail’s meat­loaf with beet­root rel­ish, gherkins and cheese.

And the five or six pies she bakes daily ro­tate be­tween Moroc­can lamb, broc­coli kale and cheese, braised steak, wild rab­bit, ba­con and potato, chicken mushroom and leek, spiced lentil and pump­kin, rata­touille and white bean, chilli bean, Sri Lankan cur­ried goat, car­damom cur­ried beef, steak ba­con and kid­ney, ox­tail mushroom and stout and lamb bar­ley and veg­etable.

From the cof­fee to the last green leaf and bite of pie, it’s all de­li­ciously good stuff.

Sour­dough toast and mar­malade $ 8; eggs $ 11-$ 16; soups $ 12; pies $ 6-$ 7; toasted sand­wiches $ 10-$ 12; savoury mains $ 14-$ 17.

IR­RE­SISTIBLE: Hot savoury pies are baked daily and served with fresh salad.

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