Tasty treats just down the street

Sunday Tasmanian - Tassie Living - - TASTE - Graeme Phillips

EL­IZ­A­BETH STREET FOOD AND WINE 285 El­iz­a­beth St, North Ho­bart. Li­censed. Open Mon­day to Fri­day 8am to 6pm, Satur­days to 5pm and Sun­days to 4pm. 6231 2626 www.esfw.com.au

OF the few newly styled prove­dore/ café/ restau­rants that have opened around the state over the past year or so, El­iz­a­beth Street Food and Wine is by far the largest.

With their “lo­cally sourced, sea­sonal, fresh, hu­mane and sus­tain­able” food ethos, the prove­dore is a Tas­ma­nian stan­dard bearer stock­ing the state’s most ex­ten­sive and di­verse se­lec­tion of lo­cal prod­ucts.

Just some of th­ese in­clude fresh veg­eta­bles, fruit, leaves and 11 va­ri­eties of pota­toes, to small- pro­ducer meats, cul­tured but­ters, cheeses and other dairy items, condi­ments, olive oils, salmon and trout, down to Tas­ma­nian wines, craft beers and ciders.

They also stock new- on- the- mar­ket gourmet good­ies such as Shima Wasabi’s fab­u­lous pure wasabi pow­der and Fowlers Cheese, made by a 13th gen­er­a­tion English cheese­maker, Ian Fowler, newly es­tab­lished in the Blue Tiers re­gion in­land from St Helens.

It re­ally is an amaz­ing ar­ray of Tas­ma­nia’s best.

And the same food ethos and many of the prove­dore pro­duce go into chef Karen Good­win- Roberts’ large break­fast and lun­cheon menus in dishes that are beau­ti­fully cooked and el­e­gantly pre­sented, free of any fash­ion­able fussi­ness or gim­mickry.

The ul­ti­mate pro­fes­sional, she and her kitchen team make al­most ev­ery­thing on your plate from scratch, from the lavosh crisp breads to the cakes, pick­les, pastes and pas­tries to break­ing down whole beasts for their char­cu­terie, hams, sausages, pork, lamb and beef stocks, sauces and dishes.

While there are plenty of gluten- free, ve­gan and lac­tose- free menu op­tions, I love the fact she doesn’t hes­i­tate to leave some fat on her melt­ingly ten­der beef rib to sup­ply flavour and a scrump­tious mouth feel af­ter its slow, 18 hours cook­ing.

Her lunch- time menu items range from the rich­ness of an ex­em­plary three-cheese sauce with her baked pump­kin and ri­cotta gnoc­chi to the sim­plic­ity and light­ness of dishes like spring greens with el­der­flower dress­ing and pick­led veg­eta­bles with labna and lavosh.

I also en­joyed a thick, sponge- like buck­wheat blini topped with gen­er­ous curls of smoked salmon, horse­rad­ish cream and crisped ca­pers fresh­ened with a sprin­kling of grated le­mon zest mak­ing for a per­fect, light, lunchtime snack.

Each of the dishes on the lunch menu is ac­com­pa­nied by a sug­gested wine taken from a con­cise but well- se­lected and very rea­son­ably priced list­ing of Tas­ma­nian, main­land, French and Ital­ian wines with 17 avail­able by the glass.

In a pe­cu­liar­ity of the li­cens­ing laws, they can sell what­ever wines and beers they like in their restau­rant but only those that are Tas­ma­nian- owned in the prove­dore, mean­ing you can sit down and dine with a Cas­cade or Boags but not walk out with one.

The kitchen is also kept busy with the long- es­tab­lished and very suc­cess­ful cater­ing side of the busi­ness as well as pre­par­ing a range of ready- to- go meals avail­able from the prove­dore, in­clud­ing, in the lead- up to Christ­mas, their own honey and pep­per­berry cured hams to be smoked by the Wursthaus in Cam­bridge, Christ­mas ham­pers and pre- pre­pared tur­key breasts, all avail­able to be or­dered from early next month.

And they cur­rently have 60kg of mixed fruits mac­er­at­ing in readi­ness for their Christ­mas cakes and pud­dings.

As if they weren’t al­ready busy enough, they will also soon open later on Thurs­days, Fri­days and Satur­days for din­ner.

BEST IN SHOW: Lo­cally sourced pro­duce avail­able in the provodore; right, staff Lawrence Ham­blin, Nonae Luekhamhaw and Sarah Oak­ley en­joy a meal.

Pic­tures: KIM EISZELE

Pic­tures: KIM EISZELE

ONE- STOP SHOP: Chefs Michael Roberts and Karen Good­win- Roberts; dishes are kept sim­ple, lo­cal and fresh; duck eggs avail­able to buy.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.