Bay­side bo­nanza

Sunday Tasmanian - Tassie Living - - FRONT PAGE - Graeme Phillips

COR­NELIAN BAY BOATHOUSE

Queens Walk, Cor­nelian Bay Li­censed Lunch and din­ner daily; 6228 9289.

Af­ter 14 very suc­cess­ful years, Leah and David Lamb sold The Boathouse last Novem­ber to John Demir who, in turn, had spent 16 years as chef/ owner of Marti Zucco’s Pizza in North Ho­bart be­fore sell­ing it to an en­er­getic young team – who also went on to turn the at­tached Se­greto into the hugely pop­u­lar Burger Haus.

Just be­fore The Boathouse’s sale, the build­ing’s own­ers – the ex- Rock­er­fellers boys Garry Dor­ring­ton and Ian Cox – had re­mod­elled and up­graded the at­tached kiosk.

Demir is now await­ing coun­cil ap­proval to add an al­fresco din­ing area to the kiosk’s fa­cil­i­ties, some­thing which should prove even more pop­u­lar with the many day­time walk­ers and fam­i­lies en­joy­ing the Queens Walk wa­ter­front and chil­dren’s play­grounds.

In the restau­rant proper, lit­tle has changed. There’s still the lovely feel­ing of airy spa­cious­ness with beau­ti­ful day­time wa­ter views giv­ing way at night to can­dlelit ta­bles, the lights of the bridge and, if you’re lucky, the moon on the wa­ter mak­ing it one of the city’s most ro­man­tic din­ing spa­ces.

And af­ter three years with the Lambs, chef Stu­art God­frey still mans the stoves while Demir and his team pro­vide a warm wel­come and ef­fi­cient and pro­fes­sional ser­vice out front.

The menu and style of food re­mains much the same as be­fore – the pop­u­lar mini- Mon­days are on again and the wine list continues to of­fer much bet­ter value than most around town. So it’s been a seam­less tran­si­tion. How­ever, writ­ten like a ho- hum shop­ping list of in­gre­di­ents for each dish, the fairly con­ser­va­tive, some­thing- for- ev­ery­one menu doesn’t do much to ex­cite the juices.

So we were pleas­antly sur­prised when some ex­cel­lent cia­batta bread and our first cour­ses at din­ner ar­rived.

One was the seafood chow­der, chock- full of fish and shell­fish, with a beau­ti­fully smooth tex­ture and con­sis­tency and with just a sub­tle hint of curry adding colour and a deeper back­ground of flavour. It was ex­cel­lent.

The sec­ond was a very mod­ern pre­sen­ta­tion of three nuggets of soy- cured and nori- crusted sal­mon with a sprin­kling of black se­same seeds, the rich­ness of the fish nicely off­set by

Pic­tures: LUKE BOW­DEN

FINE DIN­ING: Clock­wise from above, the Cor­nelian Bay Boathouse; the pan- seared duck breast on rice; head chef Stu­art God­frey puts the fin­ish­ing touches on a dish; soy- cured sal­mon with se­same seeds; the view from The Boathouse of the Tas­man Bridge and River Der­went; sig­nage at the en­trance to The Boathouse.

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