CORNELIAN BAY BOATHOUSE
Queens Walk, Cornelian Bay Licensed Lunch and dinner daily; 6228 9289.
After 14 very successful years, Leah and David Lamb sold The Boathouse last November to John Demir who, in turn, had spent 16 years as chef/ owner of Marti Zucco’s Pizza in North Hobart before selling it to an energetic young team – who also went on to turn the attached Segreto into the hugely popular Burger Haus.
Just before The Boathouse’s sale, the building’s owners – the ex- Rockerfellers boys Garry Dorrington and Ian Cox – had remodelled and upgraded the attached kiosk.
Demir is now awaiting council approval to add an alfresco dining area to the kiosk’s facilities, something which should prove even more popular with the many daytime walkers and families enjoying the Queens Walk waterfront and children’s playgrounds.
In the restaurant proper, little has changed. There’s still the lovely feeling of airy spaciousness with beautiful daytime water views giving way at night to candlelit tables, the lights of the bridge and, if you’re lucky, the moon on the water making it one of the city’s most romantic dining spaces.
And after three years with the Lambs, chef Stuart Godfrey still mans the stoves while Demir and his team provide a warm welcome and efficient and professional service out front.
The menu and style of food remains much the same as before – the popular mini- Mondays are on again and the wine list continues to offer much better value than most around town. So it’s been a seamless transition. However, written like a ho- hum shopping list of ingredients for each dish, the fairly conservative, something- for- everyone menu doesn’t do much to excite the juices.
So we were pleasantly surprised when some excellent ciabatta bread and our first courses at dinner arrived.
One was the seafood chowder, chock- full of fish and shellfish, with a beautifully smooth texture and consistency and with just a subtle hint of curry adding colour and a deeper background of flavour. It was excellent.
The second was a very modern presentation of three nuggets of soy- cured and nori- crusted salmon with a sprinkling of black sesame seeds, the richness of the fish nicely offset by
FINE DINING: Clockwise from above, the Cornelian Bay Boathouse; the pan- seared duck breast on rice; head chef Stuart Godfrey puts the finishing touches on a dish; soy- cured salmon with sesame seeds; the view from The Boathouse of the Tasman Bridge and River Derwent; signage at the entrance to The Boathouse.