Boathouse on the bay

Sunday Tasmanian - Tassie Living - - TASTE -

the fresh­ness of a shaved daikon and pick­led gin­ger salad.

A scrape of Ker­mit- green wasabi gel across the plate proved to be sim­ply a chef’s su­perfl uous fl our­ish in its scary lu­mi­nos­ity and lack of fl avour.

The fi sh and chips with house- made tar­tar was as good as it’s al­ways been at The Boathouse, while a duck breast was per­fectly cooked and rested to ten­der rosy pink­ness and was part­nered with fl avour­some sweet- sour glazed slices of pork char sui.

How­ever, the ac­com­pa­ny­ing rice and salad of enoki mush­rooms could both have done with a tad more thought and at­ten­tion.

Demir says he’s plan­ning to of­fer a wider se­lec­tion of lighter, fresher and health­ier op­tions be­yond fi sh’n’chips through the kiosk while as win­ter comes on the restau­rant menu will move to in­clude more slow- cooked and wet dishes and pos­si­bly some game.

Over­all, the qual­ity and pre­sen­ta­tion of our food at din­ner was in­con­sis­tent and I left feel­ing that the kitchen was per­haps rest­ing too much on its lau­rels.

But God­frey has a lot of ex­pe­ri­ence to draw on – in­clud­ing work­ing at Mel­bourne’s Sofi tel as sous chef un­der Ray­mond Ca­paldi and along­side Dono­van Cook and, be­fore Masterchef star­dom struck, Gary Mea­gan, while Ge­orge Colom­baris was the ap­pren­tice – and, with Demir’s plans, it will be in­ter­est­ing to see The Boathouse’s fur­ther evo­lu­tion down the track.

Price guide

Chow­der $ 16.50; sal­mon $ 19; fi sh and chips $ 26.50; duck $ 34; three- course fi xed menu $ 40

Pic­tures: LUKE BOW­DEN

OLD AND NEW: Boathouse head chef, Stu­art God­frey ( left) and new owner, John Demir; in­set, the restau­rant in­te­rior with mag­nifi cent views of the Tas­man Bridge and River Der­went.

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