Boathouse on the bay
the freshness of a shaved daikon and pickled ginger salad.
A scrape of Kermit- green wasabi gel across the plate proved to be simply a chef’s superfl uous fl ourish in its scary luminosity and lack of fl avour.
The fi sh and chips with house- made tartar was as good as it’s always been at The Boathouse, while a duck breast was perfectly cooked and rested to tender rosy pinkness and was partnered with fl avoursome sweet- sour glazed slices of pork char sui.
However, the accompanying rice and salad of enoki mushrooms could both have done with a tad more thought and attention.
Demir says he’s planning to offer a wider selection of lighter, fresher and healthier options beyond fi sh’n’chips through the kiosk while as winter comes on the restaurant menu will move to include more slow- cooked and wet dishes and possibly some game.
Overall, the quality and presentation of our food at dinner was inconsistent and I left feeling that the kitchen was perhaps resting too much on its laurels.
But Godfrey has a lot of experience to draw on – including working at Melbourne’s Sofi tel as sous chef under Raymond Capaldi and alongside Donovan Cook and, before Masterchef stardom struck, Gary Meagan, while George Colombaris was the apprentice – and, with Demir’s plans, it will be interesting to see The Boathouse’s further evolution down the track.
Chowder $ 16.50; salmon $ 19; fi sh and chips $ 26.50; duck $ 34; three- course fi xed menu $ 40
OLD AND NEW: Boathouse head chef, Stuart Godfrey ( left) and new owner, John Demir; inset, the restaurant interior with magnifi cent views of the Tasman Bridge and River Derwent.