Must eat
Top End chef David Taylor gives you a taste of the good tucker to be found in the Territory
First, please look past the front of this place. It is covered with security screens and the sign welcomes you to fish and chips. I drove past a few times as my Google map tried to put me off the scent and led me to the school next door.
Once inside, you are met with pristine cleanliness and order. Wife Wing tends to the front of house and Xing is Chef. He prefers to stay out of the limelight. The couple’s two young sons played quietly behind the counter on a big comfy lounge while mum and dad worked. A true reminder of an era past.
We came for the food. I had heard whispers, so had to investigate. Our good buddy and dining companion over many of these reviews was heading home to Adelaide. This is a BYO place so you can keep control of the booze budget. We settled in for an evening of reminiscing and serious food.
We are in our 50s so we remember what “real” Aussie Chinese food is all about. I promise you won’t be disappointed. Xing has worked in a couple of Darwin’s best Chinese kitchens over the past six years and is a true craftsman.
We ordered some crispy wings and satays to nibble on while sorting our main shared dishes. Both were great. I loved the satay sauce, which was light on the peanuts and heavy on the spice, proper Chinese style.
Scallops with ginger and shallots were stir fried with lots of fresh veg and a hint of garlic. Perfectly seasoned and no trace of MSG. A roasted half duck was mandatory for us. Plum sauce on the side. Perfect crispy skin, tender meat that fell off the bone — no need to fuss over simply good food. They do other duck dishes boneless for those who aren’t game. Duck is a tricky bird to cook. Xing knows the way and at $20 for half a bird, this is truly excellent value.
Our exiting friend Rob is somewhat of a fried rice Nazi. He lived in Vietnam for some time and does do an amazing fried rice. He simply said “very good” as he piled more on his plate. We had the special fried rice and I loved it. Lightly seasoned, fluffy and with a fresh, clean flavour. It was one of the best I’ve had.
Finally, the Hokkien Noodle Combination arrived. This was as tasty and delicious as I’ve had anywhere. Generous in portion and ingredients and so full of flavour. If I dined alone, this is what I would order.
I am coming back to try the bug tails and spicy salt, Peking duck with trimmings ($68) and stewed beef brisket.
Well done Xing and Wing. Your hard work, cleanliness and friendliness is appreciated. Your food is an honest reflection on you both and I, for one, will become a regular.
Yes, the Golden Star Kitchen is tucked away, but good things are worth the effort to find.