BE­HIND PAGE ONE

Kerby Brown by Chris White

Surfing World - - Introduction -

Ev­ery­thing lined up per­fectly this day. It was de­fi­nately the big­gest swell of the year and some of the clean­est waves I’ve ever seen at that size. It was so big in the morn­ing some of the sets were al­most max­ing out the reef. Just mas­sive chunks of ocean unloading onto this shal­low shelf with a huge boil bub­bling through the lineup. I blew my eardrum out there two weeks be­fore this photo was taken on a real heavy wipe­out that held me down for two waves. I was pretty scep­ti­cal about even surf­ing this ses­sion. I had it in the back of my mind the whole time, but it turned out to be one of the best ses­sions we’ve had and luck­ily Whitey was in a prime spot to nail the shot. – Kerby Brown

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.