The Courier-Mail - QWeekend - - RESTAURANT - ALAN HUNTER


2011 VI­ETTI PERBACCO ( $ 60 ) Vi­etti hails from Pied­mont, the Ital­ian home of neb­bi­olo, and perbacco of­fers a re­gional in­tro­duc­tion to the grape. Sweet straw­berry, rasp­berry and cherry fruit com­pete with fra­grant dried spices and an abun­dance of firm, dry, ad­dic­tive tan­nins. Score : 93/100. Avail­able at Ste­warts Wine Co, Padding­ton 2012 S.C. PAN­NELL SCP ( $ 28) Steve Pan­nell is cham­pi­oning the qual­ity pro­duc­tion of this grape in Aus­tralia. Hav­ing worked hands-on in Pied­mont, his ap­proach here is es­sen­tially hands-off. Min­i­mal in­ter­ven­tion al­lows the fruit to speak for it­self and the wine is true to old world form, yet from the Ade­laide Hills. Notes of tar, leather and dry tan­nins con­firm Pan­nell’s in­tu­ition for this va­ri­etal. Grand Cen­tral Cellars 2012 THORN-CLARKE MORELLO 92 / ($ 24) Neb­bi­olo gen­er­ally excels in mod­er­ate cli­mates with long ripen­ing sea­sons, so this ex­am­ple from Barossa’s warm cli­mate sur­prises. An early pick re­sult­ing in 11.5 per cent al­co­hol con­tent is hardly stereo­typ­i­cal, but it of­fers fresh, fra­grant cherry and cran­berry fruits with un­der­stated tan­nins. 89 / Vin­tage Cellars

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