Savoy
Colourwork cardigan
PATTERN NOTES GERMAN TWISTED CAST ON
Begin with a slipknot. Holding the needle in your right hand, insert thumb and index finger between working yarn and yarn tail. Move needle under yarn trailing off thumb, and then over the top and into loop. Move needle over loop, then under and around yarn on index finger. Move needle back through loop. Allow loop to slip off thumb and pull gently to tighten. (Lucy Neatby demonstrates this method at http://bit.ly/lucygtco )
BUTTONHOLES
Work to where you want the buttonhole to begin, bring yarn to front, Sl 1 pwise, bring yarn to back. *Sl 1 pwise, pass first slipped st over second; rep from * until desired number of sts have been cast off. Place last st back on LH needle, turn. Cast on above the opening as folls: *Insert RH needle between first and second sts on LH needle, draw up a loop, and place it on the LH needle; rep from * until desired number of sts have been cast on plus one more. Bring yarn to back, turn. Slip first st on LH needle onto RH needle and pass last cast-on st over it, work to end of row.
BACK
Using 2.75mm straight needles or circulars, 60cm long, and yarn A, cast on 118 ( 132: 148: 162: 178: 194) sts using the German twisted method (see Pattern Notes). Work flat in K1, P1 ribbing for 5cm, ending with a RS row. Change to 3.25mm needles. Next row (WS): Purl.
BEGIN CHARTS
Note: Read RS rows of the charts from right to left, and WS rows from left to right. Set-up row (RS): Join yarn B, K2 with yarn B, pm, beg on st 42 ( 35: 27: 20: 12: 4) of Chart B, work last 8 ( 15: 23: 30: 38: 46) sts of Chart B, pm, beg at st 1 of Chart A and work 49 sts of Chart A, pm, beg at st 1 of Chart B and work 49 sts of Chart B, pm, beg at st 1 of Chart A and work 8 ( 15: 23: 30: 38: 46) sts, pm, K2 with yarn B. Next row (WS): P2 with yarn B, slm, beg at 8( 15: 23: 30: 38: 46) of Row 2 of Chart A and work 8 ( 15: 23: 30: 38: 46) sts, slm, beg at st 49 of Chart B and work Row 2, slm, beg at st 49 of Chart A and work Row 2, slm, beg at st 49 of Chart B and work 8 ( 15: 23: 30: 38: 46) sts, slm, P2 with yarn B. Work Rows 3–80, then rep Rows 1–80 throughout; AT SAME TIME, shape waist:
SHAPE WAIST
Dec row (RS): K2 with yarn B, slm, SSK, work in est patt to last 4 sts, K2tog, slm, K2 with yarn B. 2 sts dec’d. Rep dec row every 4 rows 9 more times, removing 2nd and 4th marker for Size 4-6 when those sts have been dec’d. 98 ( 112: 128: 142: 158: 174) sts rem. Work 4 rows even. Inc row (RS): K2 with yarn B, slm, M1 with yarn A or B to maintain chart patt, work in patt to last 2 sts, M1 with yarn A or B to maintain patt, K2 with yarn B. 2 sts inc’d. Rep inc row every 6 rows 9 more times, and pm at each end for Size 4-6 when a full 49-st rep can be worked at each end. 118 ( 132: 148: 162: 178: 194) sts. Cont even in est patt until piece meas 42 ( 42: 40 : 40 :39 : 39 ) cm from cast-on, ending with a WS row.
SHAPE ARMHOLE
Cast off 5 ( 5:6: 8: 10: 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 ( 3:3: 4: 5: 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 2 sts at beg of next 0 ( 2:4: 4: 6: 8) rows. 104 ( 112: 122: 130: 136: 142) sts rem. Cont even in est patt until armhole meas 18 ( 19: 20 : 21: 21 : 22) cm, ending with a WS row.
SHAPE SHOULDERS
Short rows 1 and 2: Work to last 6 ( 8:9: 9: 10: 10) sts, w&t. Short rows 3 and 4: Work to last 12 ( 16: 18: 18: 20: 20) sts, w&t.
Short rows 5 and 6: Work to last 18 ( 24: 27: 27: 30: 30) sts, w&t. Short rows 7 and 8: Work to last 24 ( 33: 36: 38: 39: 40) sts, w&t. Next 2 rows: Work to end of row, picking up wraps as you come to them and working them tog with the sts they wrap. Cast off all sts in patt. Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm tail.
RIGHT FRONT
Using 2.75mm straight needles or circulars, 60cm long, and yarn A, cast on 54 ( 61: 69: 76: 84: 92) sts using the German twisted method. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 5cm, ending with a RS row. Change to 3.25mm needles. Next row (WS): Purl.
BEGIN CHARTS
Set-up row (RS): Join yarn B, K2 with yarn B, pm, beg at st 1 of Chart B and work Row 1, pm, beg at st 1 of Chart A and work Row 1 over next 1 ( 8: 16: 23: 31: 39) sts, pm, K2 with yarn B. Next row (WS): P2 with yarn B, slm, beg at st 1 ( 8: 16: 23: 31: 39) of Row 2 of Chart A and work 1 ( 8: 16: 23: 31: 39) sts, slm, beg at st 49 of Chart B and work Row 2, slm, P2 with yarn B. Work Rows 3– 80, then rep Rows 1– 80 throughout; AT THE SAME TIME, shape waist and neck:
SHAPE WAIST AND NECK
Dec row (RS): K2 with yarn B, slm, work in est patt to last 4 sts, SSK, slm, K2 with yarn B. 1 st dec’d. Rep dec row every 4 rows 9 more times, removing 3rd mrk for Sizes 4-6 and 8-10 when those sts have been dec’d. 44 ( 51: 59: 66: 74: 82) sts rem. Work 4 rows even. Next row (RS): K2 with yarn B, slm, SSK, work to last 2 sts, M1 in yarn A or B to maintain patt, slm, K2 with yarn B. 1 st dec’d for neck, and 1 st inc’d for bust. Cont inc at end of every 6 rows 9 more times and dec at beg of every 4 rows 24 ( 27: 29: 31: 33: 35) more times until piece meas 42 ( 42: 40 : 40 :39 : 39 ) cm from cast-on, ending with a RS row.
SHAPE ARMHOLE
Cont est neck shaping, cast off at beg of WS rows 5 ( 5:6: 8: 10: 12) sts once, 2 ( 3:3: 4: 5: 6) sts once, then 2 sts 0 ( 1:2: 2: 3: 4) times. 22 ( 23: 26: 28: 29: 30) sts rem.
Cont even until armhole meas 18 ( 19: 20 : 21: 21 : 22) cm, ending with a WS row.
SHAPE SHOULDERS
Short rows 1 and 2: Work to last 6 ( 6:7: 7: 7: 8) sts, w&t, work to end of row. Short rows 3 and 4: Work to last 12 ( 12: 14: 14: 14: 16) sts, w&t, work to end of row. Short rows 5 and 6: Work to last 18 ( 18: 21: 21: 21: 24) sts, w&t, work to end of row. Next row (RS): Work to end of row, picking up wraps as you come to them and working them tog with the sts they wrap. Cast off all sts in patt. Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm tail.
LEFT FRONT
Using 2.75mm straight needles or circulars, 60cm long, and yarn A, cast on 54 ( 61: 69: 76: 84: 92) sts using the German twisted method. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 5cm, ending with a RS row. Change to 3.25mm needles. Next row (WS): Purl.
BEGIN CHARTS
Set-up row (RS): Join yarn B, K2 with yarn B, pm, beg at st 49 ( 42: 34: 27: 19: 11) of Row 1 of Chart B, work 1 ( 8: 16: 23: 31: 39) sts, pm, beg at st 1 of Chart A and work Row 1, pm, K2 with yarn B. Next row (WS): P2 with yarn B, slm, beg at st 49 of Chart A and work Row 2, slm, beg at st 49 of Chart B, work next 1 ( 8: 16: 23: 31: 39) sts, slm, P2 with yarn B. Work Rows 3– 80, then rep Rows 1–80 throughout; AT THE SAME TIME, shape waist:
SHAPE WAIST AND NECK
Dec row (RS): K2 with yarn B, slm, K2tog, work in est patt to end. 1 st dec’d. Rep dec row every 4 rows 9 more times. 44 ( 51: 59: 66: 74: 82) sts rem. Work 4 rows even.
Next row (RS): K2 with yarn B, slm, M1 with yarn A or B to maintain patt, work to last 4 sts, K2tog, slm, K2 with yarn B. 1 st dec’d for neck and 1 st inc’d for bust. Cont inc at beg of every 6 rows 9 more times and dec at end of every 4 rows 24 ( 27: 29: 31: 33: 35) more times until piece meas 42 ( 42: 40 : 40 :39 : 39 ) cm from cast-on, ending with a RS row.
SHAPE ARMHOLE
Cont est neck shaping, cast off at beg of RS rows 5 ( 5:6: 8: 10: 12) sts once, 2 ( 3:3: 4: 5: 6) sts once, then 2 sts 0 ( 1:2: 2: 3: 4) times. 22 ( 23: 26: 28: 29: 30) sts rem when shaping is complete. Cont even until armhole meas 18 ( 19: 20 : 21: 21 : 22) cm, ending with a RS row.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Short rows 1 and 2: Work to last 6 ( 6:7: 7: 7: 8) sts, w&t, work to end of row. Short rows 3 and 4: Work to last 12 ( 12: 14: 14: 14: 16) sts, w&t, work to end of row. Short rows 5 and 6: Work to last 18 ( 18: 21: 21: 21: 24) sts, w&t, work to end of row. Next row (WS): Work to end of row, picking up wraps as you come to them and working them tog with the sts they wrap. Cast off all sts in patt. Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm tail.
SLEEVES
Using 2.75mm straight needles or circulars, 60cm long, and yarn A, cast on 44 ( 50: 56: 62: 68: 74) sts using the German twisted method. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 5cm, ending with a RS row. Change to 3.25mm needles. Next row (WS): Purl.
BEGIN CHARTS
Set-up row (RS): Join yarn B, beg at st 12 ( 9:6: 4: 66: 63) of Row 1 of Chart C, work 44 ( 50: 56: 62: 1: 4) sts, work 66-st rep 0 ( 0: 0: 0:1: 1) times, then work first 0 ( 0:0: 0: 1: 4) sts of chart again, ending on st 55 ( 58: 61: 65: 1: 4) of Chart C. Work 5 ( 5:3: 3: 3: 3) rows in est patt. Inc row (RS): Work 2 sts in est patt, M1 with yarn A or yarn B to maintain patt, work to last 2 sts, M1 with yarn A or yarn B to maintain patt, work 2 sts. 2 sts inc’d. Rep inc row every 6 rows 17 ( 19: 14: 11: 12: 12) more times, then every 4 rows 0 ( 0: 7: 12: 13: 15) times. 80 ( 90: 100: 110: 120: 130) sts. Work new sts in patt, and AT THE SAME TIME, cont through Row 97 of chart, then rep Rows 18–97 throughout. Cont even until piece meas 42 ( 43: 43: 44 : 45 : 46 ) cm from cast-on, ending with a WS row.
SHAPE SLEEVE CAP
Cast off 5 ( 5:6: 8: 10: 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 ( 3:3: 4: 5,6) sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 sts at beg of next 0 ( 2:4: 4: 6: 8) rows. 66 ( 70: 74: 78: 78: 78) sts rem. Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row 20 times, then every row 2 ( 3:3: 4: 4: 4) times. 22 ( 24: 28: 30: 30: 30) sts rem. Cast off rem sts in patt. Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm tail.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends, waiting to cut yarn tails until after pieces have been blocked. Join shoulders using mattress stitch. Sew in sleeves. Join side and sleeve seams using mattress stitch.
WORK BUTTONBAND
Using 2.75mm circular needles, 100cm long, and yarn A, with RS facing, beg at lower right front edge, pick up and K188 ( 192: 194: 194: 196: 196) sts along right front edge to shoulder, 40 ( 46: 50: 54: 58: 62) sts along back neck edge, then 188 ( 192: 194: 194: 196: 196) sts along left front edge to bottom edge. 416 ( 430: 438: 442: 450: 454) sts. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 1 cm, ending with a WS row. Buttonhole row (RS): Work 5 sts in est rib patt, *work buttonhole (see Pattern Notes) over next 3 sts, cont in rib until there are 7 sts on right needle tip after buttonhole gap; rep from * 2 more times, work buttonhole over next 3 sts, then work in rib to end. Cont in est rib patt until buttonband meas 3cm. Cast off all sts loosely in rib patt. Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm tail. Soak cardigan in cool water with a little wool wash, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. Lift out and gently squeeze to remove water. Lay it on a towel and roll up to remove excess water. Unroll, shape, and lay flat to dry. Sew buttons to left front ribbing opposite buttonholes.