A boisterous new venue in Ascot offers tantalising fare and breezy interiors, but what if you can’t hear yourself think?
One Fifty turns up the volume.
ONE FIFTY: REVIEWED BY ANOOSKA TUCKER- EVANS
IF YOU judge a place by the amount of fun people are having, One Fifty in Ascot would get top marks.
The owners have done an impressive renovation to the former restaurant, transforming it into a light, breezy venue that sings of Queensland summers, owing to its black, white and apple green palette, hanging greenery, and atrium-style ceiling.
While the space is sleek, it’s also deafeningly loud. On our visit, people spilled out from the courtyard and hovered around our table. Friendly, informed service eased the discomfort, and the food was well-paced.
The menu was interesting yet approachable, with starters such as pepper-crusted yellowfin tuna with a fennel, rocket and dukkah salad, and chicken liver parfait. The “substantial” section offers up dishes like Black Angus eye fillet with vegetables and bacon, and market fish with diamond clams.
A starter of soft shell crab could have easily been a main, with an entire deep-fried crab sitting on a tumble of shredded green papaya and Asian herbs with a nahm jim dressing.
Baby squid packed plenty of punch, thanks to a filling of spicy chorizo and minced prawn, while a crumbed veal cutlet followed a more traditional path, served with a caper and lemon sauce and a fine potato mash.
Trumping the savoury dishes, though, was the vacherin, which layered creamy star anise-laced ice cream against sugary meringue, with strawberries, raspberries and a berry coulis to cut through the sweetness.
Still, it’s the drinks list that is the standout, with inventive cocktails. The Mango Colada combined Havana rum with mango puree, pineapple juice, cream, coconut syrup and lime juice.
Maybe next time I’ll skip dinner and come for a drink.
From top: star anise vacherin for dessert, the breezy interiors, and the veal cutlet.