RE­VIEW

A bois­ter­ous new venue in As­cot of­fers tan­ta­lis­ing fare and breezy in­te­ri­ors, but what if you can’t hear your­self think?

The Sunday Mail (Queensland) - Stellar - - Contents -

One Fifty turns up the vol­ume.

ONE FIFTY: RE­VIEWED BY ANOOSKA TUCKER- EVANS

IF YOU judge a place by the amount of fun peo­ple are hav­ing, One Fifty in As­cot would get top marks.

The own­ers have done an im­pres­sive ren­o­va­tion to the for­mer restau­rant, trans­form­ing it into a light, breezy venue that sings of Queens­land sum­mers, ow­ing to its black, white and ap­ple green pal­ette, hang­ing green­ery, and atrium-style ceil­ing.

While the space is sleek, it’s also deaf­en­ingly loud. On our visit, peo­ple spilled out from the court­yard and hov­ered around our ta­ble. Friendly, in­formed ser­vice eased the dis­com­fort, and the food was well-paced.

The menu was in­ter­est­ing yet ap­proach­able, with starters such as pep­per-crusted yel­lowfin tuna with a fen­nel, rocket and dukkah salad, and chicken liver par­fait. The “sub­stan­tial” sec­tion of­fers up dishes like Black An­gus eye fil­let with veg­eta­bles and ba­con, and mar­ket fish with di­a­mond clams.

A starter of soft shell crab could have eas­ily been a main, with an en­tire deep-fried crab sit­ting on a tum­ble of shred­ded green pa­paya and Asian herbs with a nahm jim dress­ing.

Baby squid packed plenty of punch, thanks to a fill­ing of spicy chorizo and minced prawn, while a crumbed veal cut­let fol­lowed a more tra­di­tional path, served with a ca­per and lemon sauce and a fine potato mash.

Trump­ing the savoury dishes, though, was the vacherin, which lay­ered creamy star anise-laced ice cream against sug­ary meringue, with straw­ber­ries, rasp­ber­ries and a berry coulis to cut through the sweet­ness.

Still, it’s the drinks list that is the stand­out, with in­ven­tive cock­tails. The Mango Co­lada com­bined Ha­vana rum with mango puree, pineap­ple juice, cream, co­conut syrup and lime juice.

Maybe next time I’ll skip din­ner and come for a drink.

From top: star anise vacherin for dessert, the breezy in­te­ri­ors, and the veal cut­let.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.