RE­VIEW

It serves up one of the best value lunches on the Gold Coast, but qual­ity isn’t com­pro­mised at this con­tem­po­rary eatery SPAR­ROW EAT­ING HOUSE: RE­VIEWED BY ANOOSKA TUCKER-EVANS

The Sunday Mail (Queensland) - Stellar - - Contents - 2/32 Lavarack Rd, Nobby Beach, spar­roweat­ing­house.com.au.

Spar­row Eat­ing House, Nobby Beach.

DOES eat­ing food for a bar­gain price some­how make it taste bet­ter?

If that’s the case, Spar­row Eat­ing House at Nobby Beach could have the most de­li­cious food on the Gold Coast.

This lunch and din­ner sib­ling to Broad­beach break­fast hotspot Elk Espresso serves a five-course long lunch on week­ends for just $35 per per­son, in­clud­ing a glass of wine or beer.

With prices this keen you could ex­pect qual­ity to suf­fer, but not here. Owner An­drew Whit­ing de­liv­ers the best in­gre­di­ents money can buy in unique and in­ter­est­ing ways, while keep­ing things af­ford­able – and the share-style, mod-oz menu is proof.

Dishes are sim­ple, light and fresh, echo­ing the clean, in­dus­trial din­ing space with pops of turquoise and blue.

Take More­ton Bay bugs, for ex­am­ple, sim­ply grilled, split and slathered with a mild jalapeno and lime but­ter so the seafood is the hero. Or think pan-fried scal­lops float­ing in a lu­mi­nes­cent pea puree with pink grape­fruit for acid­ity and hazel­nut pra­line for nutty crunch.

Big­ger plates move from but­ter­milk fried chicken to a bright and el­e­gant fil­let of sal­mon with re­mark­ably crisp skin on a lightly dressed salad of cel­ery, orange, beet­root and macadamia, gar­nished with a quenelle of wasabi creme fraiche for sub­tle heat.

There’s also its take on roast pork – the shoul­der cut cooked overnight un­til ten­der and topped with a jum­ble of green veg, goat’s cheese, roast po­ta­toes and crisp strips of bub­bly crack­ling.

The whole­some menu al­lows for a lit­tle wicked­ness with dessert and the Oreo creme brulee is a sweet tooth’s dream – the silken cus­tard sus­pend­ing melted bites of choco­late bis­cuit.

Clever cock­tails and an af­ford­able wine list make Spar­row a place you’d hap­pily take your time over lunch.

FROM TOP The buzzy space, the Oreo creme brulee, and the con­tem­po­rary de­sign.

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