The chairs may be in need of some se­ri­ous re-up­hol­stery, but it’s all about the steak that’s be­ing served at this city restau­rant

The Sunday Mail (Queensland) - Stellar - - On Sunday - 39 Ed­ward St, CBD, moomoorestau­


MOO Moo Bris­bane is a venue show­ing signs of a place that’s well loved.

The once bright, avo­cado arm­chairs and ban­quettes are now a lit­tle grey around the edges from dirty hands, while pieces of ‘pleather’ flake off chairs run­ning the length of the room that is seg­re­gated from the kitchen and bar by a well-stocked wall of wine. The her­itage build­ing still re­tains its charm, but some re-up­hol­stery is in des­per­ate or­der.

Also dis­play­ing ev­i­dence of age is the wine list. The bound, bi­ble-like book heroes Bordeaux clas­sics, ac­claimed Aussie vino, plus other drops from as far as Lebanon, of­fer­ing va­ri­ety at all price points. The choice is a tad over­whelm­ing – so too when it comes to the menu.

While Moo Moo la­bels it­self a steak­house, culi­nary op­tions also in­clude char­cu­terie, seafood, a sig­na­ture dish and a whop­ping 15 sides.

Shang­hai-style cala­mari is an easy starter with a slick of gin­ger-spiked caramel met by del­i­cately bat­tered pieces of ten­der squid gar­nished with chilli threads and sprouts.

Pesc­etar­i­ans are taken care of with the mar­ket fish – this time king­fish – joined by gen­er­ous daubs of dill-in­fused creme fraiche, a frisse salad as well as chip-like pieces of crisp Jerusalem ar­ti­choke – though the in­tensely but­tery mash is a lit­tle ex­ces­sive.

But this place is all about the steak – Wagyu, Black An­gus, short rib, strip loin. While it would be nice to see more than two grass-fed op­tions on the menu, the 400g pas­ture-raised, grain-fin­ished rib-eye on the bone from the south­ern Dar­ling Downs pro­vides a happy medium, lifted by a side of roasted beet­root with goat’s cheese and golden raisins to cut through all the fat.

Moo Moo may not be Bris­bane’s best steak­house, but it does hold its own in a tight pack.

FROM TOP The her­itage din­ing space, and the Wagyu steak.

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