35 Ital­ian de­lights at CBD eatery Rosetta.

The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - Contents - ROSETTA: RE­VIEWED BY AN­THONY HUCKSTEP Grosvenor Place, 118 Har­ring­ton St, CBD, rosettarestau­rant.com.au.

THE shim­mer­ing, crisp skin of red em­peror lands gar­nished in salmoriglio (oregano, pars­ley, gar­lic and lemon). The pearles­cent flesh is pre­pared to beau­ti­ful per­fec­tion. It’s just fish, but when cooked so well it’s all you need.

Rosetta, the con­tem­po­rary Ital­ian stal­lion from Mel­bourne, has joined the Syd­ney sta­ble of the Neil Perry-led Rock­pool Din­ing Group and it is, quite frankly, a mag­nif­i­cently sexy beast.

Sit­u­ated in the Harry Sei­dlerde­signed Grosvenor Place at the Cir­cu­lar Quay end of the CBD, Rosetta is a large venue seat­ing more than 200. But be­ing sep­a­rated into a bar, mez­za­nine and ter­race, the space is sur­pris­ingly in­ti­mate. By day, light streams through the floor-to-ceil­ing win­dows. At night, the eatery takes on a dark and moody feel, with goldtrimmed ta­bles and vel­vet chairs. Wait­staff are slick and wel­com­ing, and the wine list cham­pi­ons Italy, with some Aus­tralian he­roes too.

When I am handed the menu at Neil Perry restau­rants, I tend to feel there are too many dishes. In most eater­ies, the big­ger the menu, the less chance of ex­cel­lence. But the rule never seems to ap­ply in Perry’s es­tab­lish­ments. I doubt it would mat­ter what you or­dered. There’s rarely, if ever, a hic­cup.

At Rosetta, head chef Richard Pur­due cel­e­brates the sim­plic­ity of Ital­ian cui­sine in a most en­light­ened man­ner. House-made ri­cotta is soft, silky and al­lows the nut­ti­ness of broad beans to shine. Pino’s smoked gar­lic sal­s­icce stars on thin, charred pizzette. Sweet span­ner crab and pars­ley en­twine with tagli­olini, gar­lic and chilli as if each strand was brushed in­di­vid­u­ally in the sauce. Then pale pink rounds of Torello rosé veal rump, sim­ply grilled on rock salt, ben­e­fit from a side of well-dressed green leaves and herbs.

FROM TOP The crispy pizzette, and the sleek

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