OVERSEAS PASSENGER TERMINAL, THE ROCKS 9251 5600; QUAY.COM.AU Quay comes with a big reputation. It appears regularly on top-restaurant lists and executive chef Peter Gilmore is widely recognised as one of the most inventive and thoughtful in the country.
The room itself is like the bridge of a cruise ship, all glass with a spectacular view from the Harbour Bridge across the sparkling water to the sails of the Opera House. It would be easy to fall short of such a reputation, but Quay, right now, is as gorgeously playful, assured and elegant as ever.
Start off with smoked Blackmore wagyu doused in fermented chilli and miso, and topped with incredibly thin shaved mushroom petals and cultured cream. It’s soft and delicate, and an umami bomb all at once. Gilmore’s food pays allegiance to both flavour and texture, so every bite or mouthful is a delight – sharp, soft, crackling, crumbling, melting and popping.
The tables are richly clothed and the room is scheduled for a makeover next March, but Quay is not a passing fad. When you crack a spoon into the famed snow egg it’s easy to see why this is world-class dining.
■ Must-eat dish Smoked Blackmore wagyu with fungi ■ Cuisine Modern Australian ■ Chefs Peter Gilmore & Rob Kabboord ■ Price $$$$ ■ Bookings Essential ■Open Lunch Fri-Sun; dinner daily ■Instagram @quayrestaurant