The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - DELICIOUS.100 -

OVER­SEAS PAS­SEN­GER TER­MI­NAL, THE ROCKS 9251 5600; QUAY.COM.AU Quay comes with a big rep­u­ta­tion. It ap­pears reg­u­larly on top-restau­rant lists and ex­ec­u­tive chef Peter Gil­more is widely recog­nised as one of the most in­ven­tive and thought­ful in the coun­try.

The room it­self is like the bridge of a cruise ship, all glass with a spec­tac­u­lar view from the Har­bour Bridge across the sparkling wa­ter to the sails of the Opera House. It would be easy to fall short of such a rep­u­ta­tion, but Quay, right now, is as gor­geously play­ful, as­sured and el­e­gant as ever.

Start off with smoked Black­more wagyu doused in fer­mented chilli and miso, and topped with in­cred­i­bly thin shaved mush­room petals and cul­tured cream. It’s soft and del­i­cate, and an umami bomb all at once. Gil­more’s food pays al­le­giance to both flavour and texture, so ev­ery bite or mouth­ful is a de­light – sharp, soft, crack­ling, crum­bling, melt­ing and pop­ping.

The ta­bles are richly clothed and the room is sched­uled for a makeover next March, but Quay is not a pass­ing fad. When you crack a spoon into the famed snow egg it’s easy to see why this is world-class din­ing.

■ Must-eat dish Smoked Black­more wagyu with fungi ■ Cui­sine Mod­ern Aus­tralian ■ Chefs Peter Gil­more & Rob Kab­bo­ord ■ Price $$$$ ■ Book­ings Es­sen­tial ■Open Lunch Fri-Sun; din­ner daily ■In­sta­gram @quayrestau­rant

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