23 MARY ST, SURRY HILLS 8204 0800 FIREDOOR.COM.AU
Cooking with fire may be a primal act, but it took chef Lennox Hastie to show Sydney how thrillingly nuanced it has become.At his Surry Hills restaurant, Hastie has blazed a new trail for flame-cooked food.
A simple piece of sourdough bread sets the scene.The heat of the woodfired oven creates a crisp, dark crust and caramelcoloured centre. It’s served with a smoked butter so impossibly creamy you can dip the bread straight in. The bread itself is all crunch, smoke and texture, and the essential companion for a strong dirty martini spiked with pink-hued olive brine.
Pink tuna belly is gently seared and topped with thin slices of pickled kohlrabi, radish and splashes of smoked buttermilk. The subtle wood flavour enhances the clean, ocean taste of the fish without ever overpowering it. Native marron is grilled over peach wood, the silky flesh seasoned with charred finger lime and native herbs. It’s a dish that is sublime in its simplicity.
Pasture-raised rosé veal – a sign of ethically raised calves – is expertly roasted on the bone and served with a generous pile of smoked potatoes. A dish as epic in flavour as size.
Service is professional, swift and well-informed – staff can speak to the wood varieties and the provenance of the produce. Firedoor, you are still smoking hot.
■ Must-eat dish Marron with finger lime ■ Cuisine Modern Australian ■ Chef Lennox Hastie ■ Price $$$ ■ Bookings Yes ■ Open Lunch Thu-Fri; ■Instagram dinner Tue-Sat @firedoor_surryhills