The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - DELICIOUS.100 -


Cook­ing with fire may be a pri­mal act, but it took chef Len­nox Hastie to show Syd­ney how thrillingly nu­anced it has be­come.At his Surry Hills restau­rant, Hastie has blazed a new trail for flame-cooked food.

A sim­ple piece of sour­dough bread sets the scene.The heat of the wood­fired oven cre­ates a crisp, dark crust and caramel­coloured cen­tre. It’s served with a smoked but­ter so im­pos­si­bly creamy you can dip the bread straight in. The bread it­self is all crunch, smoke and texture, and the es­sen­tial com­pan­ion for a strong dirty mar­tini spiked with pink-hued olive brine.

Pink tuna belly is gen­tly seared and topped with thin slices of pick­led kohlrabi, radish and splashes of smoked but­ter­milk. The sub­tle wood flavour en­hances the clean, ocean taste of the fish with­out ever over­pow­er­ing it. Na­tive mar­ron is grilled over peach wood, the silky flesh sea­soned with charred fin­ger lime and na­tive herbs. It’s a dish that is sub­lime in its simplicity.

Pas­ture-raised rosé veal – a sign of eth­i­cally raised calves – is ex­pertly roasted on the bone and served with a gen­er­ous pile of smoked pota­toes. A dish as epic in flavour as size.

Ser­vice is pro­fes­sional, swift and well-in­formed – staff can speak to the wood va­ri­eties and the prove­nance of the pro­duce. Firedoor, you are still smok­ing hot.

■ Must-eat dish Mar­ron with fin­ger lime ■ Cui­sine Mod­ern Aus­tralian ■ Chef Len­nox Hastie ■ Price $$$ ■ Book­ings Yes ■ Open Lunch Thu-Fri; ■In­sta­gram din­ner Tue-Sat @fire­door_­sur­ry­hills

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