The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - DELICIOUS.100 -

201 SUS­SEX ST, SYD­NEY 9283 1990 SEPIARESTAURANT.COM.AU We’re go­ing to miss them when they move to Mel­bourne, but the best things are never meant to be for­ever. This fine diner is a truly in­ter­na­tional restau­rant, but its unique Aus­tralian aes­thetic sets it apart from most on the planet.

Gar­ner­ing in­spi­ra­tion from best-in-class Aussie pro­duce as much as it does the tech­niques of Ja­panese cook­ery, Sepia de­liv­ers an en­light­ened ex­pe­ri­ence.

That means metic­u­lous ser­vice or­ches­trated by restau­ra­teur Vicki Wild, a jaw-drop­ping wine list from the tal­ented Rod­ney Set­ter and a se­ri­ous din­ing room that’s taken cues from New York’s best brasseries and Ja­pan’s kaiseki cul­ture – just don’t ex­pect a table­cloth.

Chef Martin Benn’s culi­nary es­capades are as ex­tra­or­di­nary on the eye as on the tongue, and his abil­ity to chal­lenge the gods of gas­tron­omy and still keep things damn de­li­cious re­sults in a meal like no other. Case in point: his whim­si­cal ‘pearl’ dessert.

■ Must-eat dish Salmon, smoked roe, chrysan­the­mum

■ Cui­sine Con­tem­po­rary

■ Chef Martin Benn

■ Price $$$$

■ Book­ings Es­sen­tial

■ Open Lunch Fri-Sat; din­ner Tue-Sat

■In­sta­gram @sepi­asyd­ney

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