83 PERCIVAL RD, STANMORE 9572 6666; SIXPENNY.COM.AU
A flurry of inventive snacks sets the scene at Sixpenny. Fried pumpkin cakes, fluffy gougeres and translucent wedges of cucumber are prettily arranged on the table by chef Daniel Puskas.
This former suburban takeaway joint has been transformed into a crucible of elegance and experimentation; a sparsely decorated room where the focus is on what’s on the plate or in the glass.
Choose from six or eight courses, and the wine pairing option is recommended. Sommelier Dan Sharp is a whiz at sourcing unusual, texture-driven wines from Australia and beyond. A Loire Valley Vouvray is the perfect foil for a silky spanner crab with clam butter.
It’s impossible not to be wowed by the level of creativity here. Venison tartare arrives encased by ribbons of beetroot and laced with hazelnut, managing to be both earthy and sophisticated. Even a palate cleanser of softly set mead custard wows.
A take-home bag of petit fours soothes the separation anxiety, but regardless, you will be back.
$$$$ Yes Lunch Sat-Sun; dinner Wed-Sat