BODEGA 1904

The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - DELICIOUS.100 -

THE TRAMSHEDS, 1 DALGAL WAY, FOR­EST LODGE 8624 3133; BODEGA1904.COM

It’s hard to pass up a front-row seat at one of the diner-style spearmint stools at the bar to watch chef Joel Humphreys on the pans. From here, in­side the re­vamped tramsheds of For­est Lodge, one can do some proper dish spot­ting.

Be­fit­ting of yet an­other restau­rant owned by power trio Elvis Abra­hanow­icz, Ben Milgate and Joseph Valore (Bodega, Porteño and Wyno), there’s an ex­ten­sive tapas list span­ning it­er­a­tions on much-loved Bodega clas­sics – think pick­led green toma­toes, but­ter­flied king prawn with smoky cap­sicum but­ter and rose­mary, and but­ter and bran buns stuffed with crab, av­o­cado and a fried potato scal­lop.

The wine list is mostly Aussie and Span­ish, and ab­so­lutely ex­cel­lent, and you can pop in to the glass-walled, cli­mate-con­trolled wine store and pick up a bot­tle to take home.

Ev­ery sin­gle dish that comes out of the kitchen is im­mac­u­late. There are no mis­takes, no dish dis­ap­point­ments, and nothing is dull.

■ Must-eat dish Char­coal grilled oc­to­pus, romesco sauce, roast leek

■ Cui­sine Latin

■ Chef Joel Humphreys

■ Price $$$

■ Book­ings Yes

■ Open Lunch & Din­ner daily

■ In­sta­gram @bodega1904

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