18 KANGALOON RD, BOWRAL; 4862 2005; BIOTADINING.COM.AU
Biota Dining sits in the landscape of the Southern Highlands, a world sensitive to the various seasons and whose produce is inspired by them. Ingredients are presented in their best state by a chef who knows them intimately.
Head chef James Viles was out foraging when we were there, finding his bounty in the Bowral surrounds. But the kitchen lost no pace. On the ‘Biota Five’ menu, the elegant, polished dishes include the likes of a chilled bowl – exquisite slivers of globe artichoke and tender chilled potato sit in a rich oyster broth.The lunch menu is a more casual affair. Fried potato scraps taste like potato, which seems obvious enough until you eat these and realise what potato is supposed to taste like.A generous dollop of whipped trout roe sits on the would-be chips, topped with pearls of trout roe for dipping. It’s heartbreakingly delicious.
■ Must-eat dish The snacks on the ‘Biota Five’ menu
■ Cuisine Modern Australian
■ Chef James Viles
■ Price $$$
■ Bookings Yes
■ Open Lunch Thu-Mon; dinner Thu-Tue
■ Instagram @biotadining