BIOTA DIN­ING

The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - DELICIOUS.100 -

18 KANGALOON RD, BOWRAL; 4862 2005; BIOTADINING.COM.AU

Biota Din­ing sits in the land­scape of the South­ern High­lands, a world sen­si­tive to the var­i­ous sea­sons and whose pro­duce is in­spired by them. In­gre­di­ents are pre­sented in their best state by a chef who knows them in­ti­mately.

Head chef James Viles was out for­ag­ing when we were there, find­ing his bounty in the Bowral sur­rounds. But the kitchen lost no pace. On the ‘Biota Five’ menu, the el­e­gant, pol­ished dishes in­clude the likes of a chilled bowl – ex­quis­ite sliv­ers of globe ar­ti­choke and ten­der chilled potato sit in a rich oyster broth.The lunch menu is a more ca­sual af­fair. Fried potato scraps taste like potato, which seems ob­vi­ous enough un­til you eat these and re­alise what potato is sup­posed to taste like.A gen­er­ous dol­lop of whipped trout roe sits on the would-be chips, topped with pearls of trout roe for dip­ping. It’s heart­break­ingly de­li­cious.

■ Must-eat dish The snacks on the ‘Biota Five’ menu

■ Cui­sine Mod­ern Aus­tralian

■ Chef James Viles

■ Price $$$

■ Book­ings Yes

■ Open Lunch Thu-Mon; din­ner Thu-Tue

■ In­sta­gram @biotadining

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