CIRRUS

The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - DELICIOUS.100 -

23 BARANGA­ROO AVE, BARANGA­ROO; 9220 0111 CIRRUSDINING.COM.AU

Fear rip­pled through Syd­ney when the Baranga­roo com­plex was an­nounced. Surely this was go­ing to be an ex­ten­sion of Darling Har­bour draw­ing in bliss­fully obliv­i­ous tourists for over­priced and un­der­whelm­ing food?

But then Efendy’s Somer Sivri­oglu brought in Ana­son; Mel­bourne’s Mor­gan McGlone took up shop with Belle’s Hot Chicken; Hamish Ing­ham ex­panded from Bar H to Banksii.And then there was Cirrus.We breathed a col­lec­tive sigh of re­lief.

When chef Brent Sav­age and som­me­lier Nick Hilde­brandt an­nounced they were tak­ing a spot at Baranga­roo, there was no fur­ther doubt that this would be a din­ing des­ti­na­tion worlds apart from the neigh­bour­ing strip lo­cals love to hate. With Bent­ley, Yel­low and Monopole firmly estab­lished in their stable, we were ready to book in.

A year on and the duo’s new­est venue has reached such an out­stand­ing level, it’s taken the gold for their group in the de­li­cious. 100.

Sus­tain­ably sourced seafood is the fo­cus and Sav­age lets the qual­ity of his pro­duce do the talk­ing. Fish fin­gers hark back to child­hood, but his grown-up ver­sion is paired with salted cu­cum­ber and pre­served lemon. King prawns are doused in house-made XO sauce, while grilled mar­ron is boosted by the Ja­panese condi­ment du jour yuzu kosho. A limited choice of red meat en­sures die-hard car­ni­vores aren’t dis­ap­pointed.

Joint-owner Hilde­brandt is one of Aus­tralia’s most awarded som­me­liers and it’s no sur­prise to see an ex­cit­ing, lengthy list that is built around Sav­age’s food.

It’s ar­guably the best lo­ca­tion in the com­plex, all huge curved win­dows and nat­u­ral light in the Pas­cale Gomes-McNabb-de­signed space, com­ple­mented by ef­fi­cient but re­laxed ser­vice that makes this a truly pleas­ant place to eat.

Clever dishes fo­cus­ing on sus­tain­abil­ity, a con­tem­po­rary wine list and an invit­ing water­front lo­ca­tion: eat­ing at Cirrus is liv­ing the din­ing dream.

■ Must-eat dish Roasted king prawns ■ Cui­sine Seafood ■ Chef Brent Sav­age & Ai­den Stevens ■ Price $$$ ■ Book­ings Yes ■ Open Lunch & din­ner daily ■ In­sta­gram @cir­rus_­din­ing

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