33 ENMORE RD, NEWTOWN; 8068 1473 HARTSYARD.COM.AU
He’s the New York chef who first introduced us to fried chicken and oyster po’boys, and five and a half years on, Gregory Llewellyn’s food continues to teach us new tricks.
The fried chicken has flown the menu, and the evolution of Llewellyn’s cooking shows a mastery of vegetables.A snack of radish kimchi served atop an oat and chia cracker spread with smoked butter made from toasted radish tops is a true no-waste dish both in the kitchen and on the table as we wipe the plate clean.
Fat pumpkin dumplings are bedmates with house-made cottage cheese and pine nut puree – a dish that’s comforting, but not heavy – and globe artichokes are served on a bed of shaved sprouts and stracciatella.The chef had already won us over with his brisket and poutine, but these pairings show an understanding of what makes food truly delicious.
The food is refined, but the vibe is neighbourhood, and service achieves theat tricky balance of slick and warm.
While the queue of people out the front may have gone, Hartsyard has a self-assured swagger that still makes it an exciting dining destination today.
■Cuisine Radish kimchi
■Chef Modern American Gregory Llewellyn
■Open $$$ Yes Dinner
■Instagram Wed-Sun @hartsyard