HARTSYARD

The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - DELICIOUS.100 -

33 EN­MORE RD, NEW­TOWN; 8068 1473 HARTSYARD.COM.AU

He’s the New York chef who first in­tro­duced us to fried chicken and oyster po’boys, and five and a half years on, Gre­gory Llewellyn’s food con­tin­ues to teach us new tricks.

The fried chicken has flown the menu, and the evo­lu­tion of Llewellyn’s cook­ing shows a mas­tery of veg­eta­bles.A snack of radish kim­chi served atop an oat and chia cracker spread with smoked but­ter made from toasted radish tops is a true no-waste dish both in the kitchen and on the ta­ble as we wipe the plate clean.

Fat pump­kin dumplings are bed­mates with house-made cot­tage cheese and pine nut puree – a dish that’s com­fort­ing, but not heavy – and globe ar­ti­chokes are served on a bed of shaved sprouts and strac­ciatella.The chef had al­ready won us over with his brisket and pou­tine, but these pair­ings show an un­der­stand­ing of what makes food truly de­li­cious.

The food is re­fined, but the vibe is neigh­bour­hood, and ser­vice achieves theat tricky bal­ance of slick and warm.

While the queue of peo­ple out the front may have gone, Hartsyard has a self-as­sured swag­ger that still makes it an ex­cit­ing din­ing des­ti­na­tion to­day.

■Must-eat dish

■Cui­sine Radish kim­chi

■Chef Mod­ern Amer­i­can Gre­gory Llewellyn

■Price

■Book­ings

■Open $$$ Yes Din­ner

■In­sta­gram Wed-Sun @hartsyard

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