6 DAVID ST, BOWRAL
4861 7787; BISTROOFFICINA.COM.AU
Up a gravel path and inside an ivy-clad country hotel overlooking a green grove of established trees, an earthy space is filled with the happy sound of people having a good time, and the air is rich with the scent of fire-kissed food from Nicola Coccia (ex-Biota).This is not a Disney scene; this is Bistro Officina.
Chicken skin, crispy as a shard of tree bark, is topped with sour cream and a sliver of black truffle as a snack.This is cooking without the rules,finding elegance in perfect produce touched only by wood smoke, fire and charcoal embers. Western Australian marron is halved, cooked over coals, and topped with beach plant and caramelised mandarin. Pasta is pitch perfect, too – the stand-out is the orecchiette laced with calamari ink, chilli and sea urchin.
■ Must-eat dish Anything woodfired ■ Cuisine European ■ Chef Nicola Coccia ■ Price $$ ■ Bookings Yes ■ Open Breakfast Sat-Sun; lunch Fri-Sun; dinner Wed-Mon ■ Instagram @bistroofficina