16 FOSTER ST, SURRY HILLS; 9280 3395; NOMADWINE.COM.AU
A nomad is a person without a permanent home,but while the head chef here travels regularly for overseas inspiration,to Surry Hills she always returns.Jacqui Challinor is known for her ongoing search for new,more sustainable,local ingredients that she treats with her own global nous and prowess on the pans.
The menu spans kingfish ceviche with avocado and finger lime to David Blackmore wagyu tongue with Jersey yoghurt and chilli oil.The room is textbook industrial chic, with large steel-frame windows and an open kitchen. It’s large, and the 180 seats means service can feel scattered.A little more advice would be helpful on the wine, especially at lunchtime, but all is forgiven when everything lands.
■ Must-eat dish Wood-roasted rainbow trout wrapped in vine leaves ■ Cuisine Modern Australian ■ Chef Jacqui Challinor ■ Price $$ ■ Bookings Yes
■ Open Lunch Wed-Sat; dinner Mon-Sat ■ Instagram @nomadsydney