2016 Dune The Empty Quar­ter

The Weekend Australian - Magazine - - LIFE -

In 2008, Co­ri­ole ac­quired a vine­yard in McLaren Vale with 8ha now planted to shi­raz, chenin blanc, grenache, carig­nan, cin­saut, nero d’Avola, mon­tepul­ciano, ne­groa­maro, mourvè­dre, grenache blanc and san­giovese. It al­ready owned just un­der 50ha of vine­yards, but wanted to test the Mediter­ranean va­ri­eties in the sandy soils of Ble­witt Springs.

En­ter Co­ri­ole broth­ers Peter and Dun­can Lloyd, who had grown up “im­mersed in a world of wine, olive oil, il­le­gal goat’s cheese and great food”. Both had worked in kitchens from the age of 13, de­vel­op­ing a love of great food and wine. Dun­can stud­ied wine­mak­ing be­fore work­ing in Tas­ma­nia, Mar­garet River, Chi­anti and the Rhône Val­ley. He re­cently re­turned to McLaren Vale as he couldn’t un­der­stand why you would want to live and work any­where else. Peter left home af­ter univer­sity, spend­ing time bak­ing crois­sants in Paris, mak­ing cider in Som­er­set and rais­ing al­pacas in Sus­sex. Re­turn­ing to Aus­tralia, he worked in wine dis­tri­bu­tion in Mel­bourne and “also can’t un­der­stand why you would want to live any­where else but McLaren Vale – which ex­plains his grumpi­ness be­cause he still lives in Mel­bourne”. Peter is also the author of the bril­liantly hu­mor­ous PR story of Dune, which you can find at dunewine.com.

Wine writ­ers tend to have a tense re­la­tion­ship with PR con­sul­tants, who of­ten have lit­tle or no first­hand knowl­edge of how the wine in­dus­try works, even less what’s needed to con­struct a story with ap­peal to the public. If it’s about a wine, the most es­sen­tial piece of in­for­ma­tion is the re­tail price, which is all too of­ten omit­ted.

Dune’s web­site is the ex­cep­tion. It is also the only place where you can buy the five wines in Dune Wines’ in­au­gu­ral re­lease (pro­duced by the broth­ers, who buy the grapes from Co­ri­ole), and they are as ad­dic­tive as any I have tasted in years. A co-fer­mented blend of grenache, mourvè­dre, carig­nan and shi­raz; the bou­quet is per­fumed with meadow flow­ers and for­est berries, pre­cisely re­played on the light to medium-bod­ied but in­tensely juicy palate. 14% alc, screw­cap 95 points, drink to 2025, $28

2016 Dune Pyla

Nero d’Avola, mourvè­dre, carig­nan and shi­raz. Fer­mented in beeswax-lined con­crete vats; su­per fra­grant bou­quet; the palate hosts a corps de bal­let of red, pur­ple and blue fruit flavours. Just beau­ti­ful; a sec­ond glass ir­re­sistible. 13.5% alc, screw­cap 95 points, drink to 2024, $26

2017 Dune Bon­aire McLaren Vale Rosé

Built with carig­nan and shi­raz. Pale lip­stick pink. A scented flo­ral and spice bou­quet, then a fresh, lively, dry palate. Very smart wine, go any­where with any­thing. 12.5% alc, screw­cap 93 points, drink to 2019, $25

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