Lit­tle Paris Kitchen

The Weekend Australian - Review - - Television -

Thurs­day, 8pm, SBS One What­ever hap­pened to French restau­rants? In the 1970s and 80s they seemed to be all over Aus­tralian cap­i­tal cities like un ir­ri­ta­tion. Now they are as rare as teeth in a coq au vin. And, since French women are known to be slim and gor­geous (see the book French Women Don’t Get Fat, by Mireille Guil­iano) it can’t be that the food is un­healthy. This delightful six-part cook­ing pro­gram, hosted by English-born chef and food writer Rachel Khoo, pic­tured, will make you nos­tal­gic for Paris and French food in gen­eral. The scenes of Paris are beau­ti­fully shot and they re­flect Khoo’s pas­sion for the place. The chef left Eng­land to live and work in Paris years ago. She trained at Le Cor­don Bleu be­fore open­ing a restau­rant in her tiny flat in Belleville where, with just two ta­bles, she wowed the no­to­ri­ously fussy French food crit­ics and any­one lucky enough to score a book­ing. This is not just a tri­umph of celebrity cook­ing but a vic­tory over space that should in­spire any­one liv­ing in cramped con­di­tions to give ad­ven­tur­ous cook­ing a red-hot go. With arms out­spread, Khoo can al­most touch the walls in her kitchen. Un­daunted, she show us how it’s done with hu­mour and a lovely, en­gag­ing man­ner. Her aim in this se­ries is to take the fear out of French cook­ing. Mis­sion ac­com­plished.

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