He­ston’s Fan­tas­ti­cal Food

The Weekend Australian - Review - - Television -

Thurs­day, 8.30pm, SBS One Chef He­ston Blu­men­thal seems to have lost the plot with this new se­ries in which he at­tempts to cre­ate huge ver­sions of what should be sim­ple dishes. Tonight he tack­les the meal he says was a main in­flu­ence on his cook­ing: break­fast. One would think he’d want to for­get mag­i­cal child­hood dishes such as snail por­ridge and parsnip ce­real but that’s our prob­lem, he says. We’ve lost the magic. Brits in par­tic­u­lar are the most likely to skip break­fast or swap it for cof­fee and fags — a fact borne out when he sets up a su­per­size break­fast with a gi­ant egg made from yo­ghurt, gelatin and mango with a 6.5kg sausage at Birm­ing­ham Sta­tion. Not one com­muter stopped to in­dulge. Can’t think why not. A gim­mick gone too far?

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