The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

2005 Deisen Mataro THERE is no cel­lar door and Sabine Deisen is adamant she will not in­crease pro­duc­tion be­yond 1000 cases a year; she al­ready spends too much time with her com­puter. So mar­ket­ing takes a back seat and there is an ar­ray of wines go­ing back to the 2001 and 2002 shi­raz (both 94 points, $56). The for­mer re­veals softly lus­cious red and black fruits, touches of choco­late and mocha, and ripe tan­nins. The lat­ter is deep and vi­brantly coloured, of­fer­ing lay­ers of black­berry, spice, licorice and plum, the oak rel­e­gated to the role of a bit player. The 2005 Mataro (which in­cludes 10 per cent shi­raz; 93 points, $36) shows why mataro is a favourite, as ripe and lus­cious as one could ex­pect at 14.5 per cent al­co­hol, plus good length and bal­anced tan­nins. There are more than a dozen va­ri­eties avail­able, with de­tails at The la­bels are prints of paint­ings by Deisen, the wines all made with love and skill. James Halliday

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