The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

2005 Do­maine Le­flaive Puligny Mon­tra­chet Clavoil­lon WHILE in Bur­gundy I had the priv­i­lege of tast­ing all the 2005 Le­flaive wines (other than the mys­ti­cal Mon­tra­chet). An­neClaude Le­flaive prefers the 2004s, be­liev­ing they will have a longer life thanks to their el­e­gance and slightly greater min­er­al­ity. For the for­tu­nate few who have both, the an­swer is to drink the beau­ti­fully bal­anced and forth­com­ing ’ 05s first and then the ’ 04s. As I whirled up the scale to the pre­mier crus, try­ing to dif­fer­en­ti­ate the qual­ity be­came point­less. The Clavoil­lon is beau­ti­fully fo­cused, tight and in­tense, with cit­rus and grape­fruit flavours and grip to the fin­ish. The Fo­latieres has al­most ethe­real, flo­ral aro­mat­ics and ex­treme length of palate. The Pu­celles is finer, more el­e­gant yet more closed. The Cri­ots Batard Mon­tra­chet is an aris­to­crat, tak­ing nei­ther pris­on­ers nor carp­ing crit­i­cisms. The Che­va­lier Mon­tra­chet is sheer class, an im­pos­si­bly el­e­gant fu­sion of power and fi­nesse. Fi­nally, the Batard Mon­tra­chet is the youngest, per­fectly bal­anced and, de­spite its youth, I have to con­fess to for­get­ting to spit it out. James Halliday

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