Din­ing scene be­comes an open-and-shut case

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence - Ju­dith Elen

CEL­E­BRATED Perth restau­rant Eminem, which dra­mat­i­cally closed at the end of last year and just as dra­mat­i­cally re­opened soon af­ter, is re­ally go­ing this time.

FoodDe­tec­tive re­ported ( Travel& In­dul­gence , Novem­ber 4-5, 2006) that chef Is­mail To­sun’s mo­men­tary dis­ap­pear­ance came within weeks of re­ceiv­ing a clutch of glit­ter­ing awards. A mas­ter of mod­ern Turk­ish cui­sine, To­sun has sold the Ned­lands restau­rant and will go with his fam­ily to Is­tan­bul, where he plans to work as a chef. De­tec­tive hears that his pas­sion­ate de­vo­tion to the restau­rant and the killer hours he put in were the de­cid­ing fac­tors be­hind the move.

To­sun has sold to vet­eran Perth restau­ra­teur Jean Daniel Ichal­la­lene, for­merly of Jolly Frog Cafe Restau­rant at Wan­nanup near Man­durah and Pierre’s in West Perth.

AN­OTHER loss, and the Ma­ha­rana of Udaipur will be dis­ap­pointed: Oh Cal­cutta, in Vic­to­ria Street in Dar­linghurst, the Ma­ha­rana’s favourite In­dian restau­rant in Syd­ney, is clos­ing af­ter 19 years. Owner Basil Daniell has sold the premises to Asian in­vestors. Word is the new regime plans to open a Max Bren­ner- style choco­late cafe.

Mean­while, Oh Cal­cutta is com­pil­ing a spe­cial de­gus­ta­tion menu based on cus­tomers’ favourites through the years; it be­gins on Mon­day and will be in place un­til the kitchens close on Septem­ber 1. This is Oh Cal­cutta’s way of say­ing thank you, Daniell tells De­tec­tive .

Mantu, a sig­na­ture dish of steamed lamb dumplings from north­ern Pak­istan and Afghanistan, tops the list. www.ohcal­cutta.com.au.

GLITZ and glam­our prom­ise to be the or­der of the week at Nobu Melbourne. The Aus­tralianGourmetTrav­eller Restau­rant Awards will be an­nounced to a food and me­dia crowd on Wed­nes­day. On Thurs­day night, Nobu and Crown pa­tri­ci­ate, in­clud­ing global chef Nobu Mat­suhisa and his busi­ness part­ner Robert De Niro, and Crown owner James Packer, will be there for the open­ing of a sake bar­rel, a Nobu tra­di­tion, at the launch. www.nobu­restau­rants.com.

NOOSA’S Bistro C and Ber­ardo’s will be key play­ers at the Noosa Jazz Fes­ti­val this month. Bistro C will host the open­ing din­ner and jazz party, with chef Dayle Merlo’s menu and a glass of bub­bles to ac­com­pany four jazz per­form­ers, all for $95, Au­gust 31.

Mean­while, James Mor­ri­son and his band, fea­tur­ing Emma Pask, will per­form at Ber­ardo’s over four nights, Au­gust 30 to Septem­ber 2; four-course din­ner with two mu­sic sets, $185; three-course lunch with one set, $110. www.bistroc.com.au; www.be­rar­dos.com.au; www.noosa­jazz.com.au.

ROBERTO Car­done, Sal­va­tore Pepe, An­gelo In­glese and Clau­dio Fer­raro, at the cen­tre of Ade­laide’s Ital­ian restau­rant and cof­fee cul­ture for 20 years, have en­tered the Hall of Fame of the state’s Restau­rant and Cater­ing Awards for Ex­cel­lence. They stand along­side food lu­mi­nar­ies such as Mag­gie Beer and Cheong Liew.

The quar­tet founded the North Ade­laide in­sti­tu­tion Cibo Ris­torante Pas­tic­ce­ria in 1996, sell­ing in 2006 to throw their en­er­gies into Cibo Es­presso, based on tra­di­tional Ital­ian cof­fee houses. There are now 11 in Ade­laide, with an­other due to open in Oc­to­ber, four in Bris­bane and one planned for Melbourne. www.ci­boe­spresso.com.au.

DIARY dead­line: The an­nual Mudgee Food and Wine Fair vis­its Syd­ney this Sun­day, 10am-5pm; be at Bal­moral Beach for an up­date on the re­gion’s wines, olive oils, cheeses and more. Book for a wine mas­ter­class; $25 in­cludes Mudgee gourmet tast­ing plates. www.mudgeewine.com.au.

Find of the week: Babicka Orig­i­nal Worm­wood Vodka, an ear­lier dis­cov­ery by De­tec­tive ( Travel&In­dul­gence , May 19-20), has won a sil­ver medal for best al­co­holic bev­er­age in the Aus­tralian Food Chal­lenge sec­tion of the Bri­tish-based In­ter­na­tional Wine and Spirit Com­pe­ti­tion. The vodka will be re­leased in Hong Kong and New Zealand this month. www.babick­avodka.com.

De­tec­tive loves: The LifeStyle Food Chan­nel’s sec­ond se­ries of Great Bri­tishMenus. Bri­tish chefs wage war to cook not for the Queen but for the French. Week­nights, 7.30pm.

De­tec­tive loathes: Peo­ple de­scrib­ing din­ing ex­pe­ri­ences as awe­some and magic.

Royal wave: Daniell

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