Dining scene becomes an open-and-shut case
CELEBRATED Perth restaurant Eminem, which dramatically closed at the end of last year and just as dramatically reopened soon after, is really going this time.
FoodDetective reported ( Travel& Indulgence , November 4-5, 2006) that chef Ismail Tosun’s momentary disappearance came within weeks of receiving a clutch of glittering awards. A master of modern Turkish cuisine, Tosun has sold the Nedlands restaurant and will go with his family to Istanbul, where he plans to work as a chef. Detective hears that his passionate devotion to the restaurant and the killer hours he put in were the deciding factors behind the move.
Tosun has sold to veteran Perth restaurateur Jean Daniel Ichallalene, formerly of Jolly Frog Cafe Restaurant at Wannanup near Mandurah and Pierre’s in West Perth.
ANOTHER loss, and the Maharana of Udaipur will be disappointed: Oh Calcutta, in Victoria Street in Darlinghurst, the Maharana’s favourite Indian restaurant in Sydney, is closing after 19 years. Owner Basil Daniell has sold the premises to Asian investors. Word is the new regime plans to open a Max Brenner- style chocolate cafe.
Meanwhile, Oh Calcutta is compiling a special degustation menu based on customers’ favourites through the years; it begins on Monday and will be in place until the kitchens close on September 1. This is Oh Calcutta’s way of saying thank you, Daniell tells Detective .
Mantu, a signature dish of steamed lamb dumplings from northern Pakistan and Afghanistan, tops the list. www.ohcalcutta.com.au.
GLITZ and glamour promise to be the order of the week at Nobu Melbourne. The AustralianGourmetTraveller Restaurant Awards will be announced to a food and media crowd on Wednesday. On Thursday night, Nobu and Crown patriciate, including global chef Nobu Matsuhisa and his business partner Robert De Niro, and Crown owner James Packer, will be there for the opening of a sake barrel, a Nobu tradition, at the launch. www.noburestaurants.com.
NOOSA’S Bistro C and Berardo’s will be key players at the Noosa Jazz Festival this month. Bistro C will host the opening dinner and jazz party, with chef Dayle Merlo’s menu and a glass of bubbles to accompany four jazz performers, all for $95, August 31.
Meanwhile, James Morrison and his band, featuring Emma Pask, will perform at Berardo’s over four nights, August 30 to September 2; four-course dinner with two music sets, $185; three-course lunch with one set, $110. www.bistroc.com.au; www.berardos.com.au; www.noosajazz.com.au.
ROBERTO Cardone, Salvatore Pepe, Angelo Inglese and Claudio Ferraro, at the centre of Adelaide’s Italian restaurant and coffee culture for 20 years, have entered the Hall of Fame of the state’s Restaurant and Catering Awards for Excellence. They stand alongside food luminaries such as Maggie Beer and Cheong Liew.
The quartet founded the North Adelaide institution Cibo Ristorante Pasticceria in 1996, selling in 2006 to throw their energies into Cibo Espresso, based on traditional Italian coffee houses. There are now 11 in Adelaide, with another due to open in October, four in Brisbane and one planned for Melbourne. www.ciboespresso.com.au.
DIARY deadline: The annual Mudgee Food and Wine Fair visits Sydney this Sunday, 10am-5pm; be at Balmoral Beach for an update on the region’s wines, olive oils, cheeses and more. Book for a wine masterclass; $25 includes Mudgee gourmet tasting plates. www.mudgeewine.com.au.
Find of the week: Babicka Original Wormwood Vodka, an earlier discovery by Detective ( Travel&Indulgence , May 19-20), has won a silver medal for best alcoholic beverage in the Australian Food Challenge section of the British-based International Wine and Spirit Competition. The vodka will be released in Hong Kong and New Zealand this month. www.babickavodka.com.
Detective loves: The LifeStyle Food Channel’s second series of Great BritishMenus. British chefs wage war to cook not for the Queen but for the French. Weeknights, 7.30pm.
Detective loathes: People describing dining experiences as awesome and magic.
Royal wave: Daniell