The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

2006 Dr Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Ries­ling Kabi­nett IT would be less than hon­est if I sug­gested the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer re­gion has many chal­lengers in Ger­man ries­ling. More­over, for once in my life I amas happy with those at the lower end of the price range as those at the up­per end: $32 for a kabi­nett ver­sus sev­eral hun­dred dol­lars for a beer­e­nauslese and even more for the rare trock­en­beer­e­nauslese. What is more, there is a won­der­ful range of pro­duc­ers who ex­port their wines to Aus­tralia: J. J. Prum, Egon Muller, Re­ichs­graf von Kes­sel­statt, Max Ferd Richter and Dr Loosen. I have a spe­cial ap­pre­ci­a­tion for Ernie Loosen for re­leas­ing his 2005 and 2006 kabi­netts from Wehlener Son­nenuhr and Bernkasteler Lay (the vine­yard names) un­der screw­cap. With an al­co­hol level of only 7.5 per cent, th­ese are flavour bombs that flood the mouth with tin­gling lime juice, their sweet­ness per­fectly bal­anced by acid­ity. I don’t sip th­ese wines, I gulp them in a thor­oughly un­seemly fash­ion. cel­lar­hand@big­ James Halliday

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