The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

1996 Krug HOW many points should you give a wine such as the 1996 Krug? Should you even bother with points is an even bet­ter ques­tion. I know enough about the vin­tages up to 2006 to be sure I have not and will not taste a greater young cham­pagne than this wine, so I must break with long-held prac­tice and give it the per­fect Bo Derek 10, or the Robert Parker 100 points. And I will even more force­fully ar­gue that the $495 price tag is lu­di­crously cheap if you think how much more you would pay for a 2005 first growth bordeaux or grand cru bur­gundy, the bordeaux not ready for 15 years, the bur­gundy drink­able (too drink­able, re­ally) now, but with an­other 10 years be­fore it reaches a de­gree of ma­tu­rity. The ’ 96 Krug has in­cred­i­ble in­ten­sity but it is the length of the palate and the per­sis­tence of the af­ter­taste that take it into the vi­nous strato­sphere. Along the way you will find an awein­spir­ing mix of ripe fruit, honey and brioche flavours be­fore the per­fectly bal­anced acid­ity leaves the mouth thirst­ing for more. James Halliday

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