The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence - James Halliday

FROM the first vin­tage, in 1989, Gros­set Gaia has stood apart from main­stream Clare Val­ley style thanks to its ex­tra de­gree of fi­nesse. This has been achieved with­out any diminu­tion in flavour or va­ri­etal typ­ic­ity; if this were not enough, it has also been a model of con­sis­tency in qual­ity terms. (No sur­prise here, as it ap­plies to all of Gros­set’s wines.) Bright and clear pur­ple-red, the 2004 Gaia (94 points, $53) is on the light end of medium bod­ied. It is very fresh (only 13.5 per cent al­co­hol and, given Gros­set’s dis­dain of cork, sealed with a screw­cap) and har­mo­nious, with fruit, oak and tan­nins pre­cisely fash­ioned and bal­anced. It will live far longer than one may imag­ine, most prob­a­bly show­ing no hint of tired­ness be­fore 2030, which is no rea­son not to open a bot­tle tonight. www.gros­

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