FROM THE REGION
FROM the first vintage, in 1989, Grosset Gaia has stood apart from mainstream Clare Valley style thanks to its extra degree of finesse. This has been achieved without any diminution in flavour or varietal typicity; if this were not enough, it has also been a model of consistency in quality terms. (No surprise here, as it applies to all of Grosset’s wines.) Bright and clear purple-red, the 2004 Gaia (94 points, $53) is on the light end of medium bodied. It is very fresh (only 13.5 per cent alcohol and, given Grosset’s disdain of cork, sealed with a screwcap) and harmonious, with fruit, oak and tannins precisely fashioned and balanced. It will live far longer than one may imagine, most probably showing no hint of tiredness before 2030, which is no reason not to open a bottle tonight. www.grosset.com.au.