Cap­i­tal ter­ri­tory around Can­berra for graz­ing on fresh fod­der

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence - Ju­dith Elen

BORDER moves: chef Tom and part­ner Crys­tal Moore, own­ers of Sage Restau­rant in Brad­don, ACT, last week took over the li­cence at muchawarded restau­rant Graz­ing, in the NSW border town of Gun­da­roo, a half hour’s drive from Can­berra. Peo­ple travel to come here, Crys­tal Moore tells FoodDe­tec­tive, so the cou­ple want to make Graz­ing the fo­cus of a day out. Pro­duce from the Can­berra dis­trict will re­main at the heart of the menu, matched with great re­gional wines. But Graz­ing is set on 0.8ha of land and the plan is to make the most of this abun­dance. (The web­site re­ports what’s in sea­son in the kitchen gar­den: as­para­gus, Tus­can black kale, ruby chard. Ex­pect ul­tra fresh.)

The next project will be to de­velop a range of home-grown house prod­ucts. Then a cheese room. www.graz­

DE­VEL­OP­MENTS at Graz­ing co­in­cide with next week­end’s Wine, Roses and All That Jazz Fes­ti­val at 26 Can­berra dis­trict winer­ies and restau­rants. (Graz­ing plans a Wine and Roses de­gus­ta­tion menu.)

At the fes­ti­val there’ll be wine­maker talks, tours and demon­stra­tions and gourmet re­gional fare such as hand­made cheeses, olive oil and an­tipasti. And, of course, jazz and roses. Novem­ber 3-4. www.can­ber­raw­

DI­ET­MAR Sawyere, chef-restau­ra­teur of Syd­ney’s Forty One, has an­nounced the much an­tic­i­pated re­open­ing, on Novem­ber 10, of Berowra Wa­ters Inn, which he took over in late May. He tells De­tec­tive he wants to re­de­fine him­self at BWI, lean­ing more to­wards Mediter­ranean food than the haute cui­sine of Forty One: din­ers will choose four, five or six from a de­gus­ta­tion menu of about 12 en­tree-sized dishes. The Hawkes­bury River venue is stun­ning, he says, so ‘‘ we didn’t want it all to be over in an en­tree, a main and a dessert’’.

Hawkes­bury pro­duce from the river and the farms will be cen­tral to the menu, and as or­ganic as pos­si­ble. www.berowrawa­

OPIN­IONS on cheese? Cast your vote at Syd­ney’s Fro­mage du Monde. Tick­ets en­ti­tle hold­ers to taste lo­cal and in­ter­na­tional cheeses, then vote for their favourite three. In its third year, this vast cheese pic­nic is or­gan­ised by Jones the Gro­cer in con­junc­tion with Porsche at its show­rooms at 470 Gar­den­ers Rd, Alexan­dria. To­mor­row, 11am-5pm. Tick­ets $15 from Jones the Gro­cer stores; $20 at the door. www.jon­es­thegro­

MAR­KET share. South Aus­tralia’s Clare Val­ley has its healthy quota. Lo­cal pro­duce mar­kets com­ing up are: Burra Mar­ket Day at Best Place, Burra North. Fruit, veg­eta­bles and pro­duce, Novem­ber 3, 9am-4pm. Clare Show­grounds Coun­try Mar­ket, Novem­ber 3-4, 8am to 12.30pm. River­ton Monthly Mar­ket, Com­mu­nity Hall, River­ton, Novem­ber 10, 9am-1pm. www.clareval­

STILL in SA, the Zema fam­ily at Coon­awarra’s Zema Es­tate win­ery will be cel­e­brat­ing its Ital­ian her­itage through­out Novem­ber with Mrs Zema’s good­ies (bis­cotti, pan­forte-style nut cake), New Nor­cia Bak­ery pro­duce and gift boxes, com­pli­men­tary wine tast­ings and the fam­ily his­tory in pho­to­graphs, at the cel­lar door. Daily, 9am-5pm.

FEW do rus­tic Ital­ian as well as War­dens Food and Wine at Beech­worth in north­ern Vic­to­ria. At a Taste of Tus­cany lunch, chef Douglas Elder’s six­course menu— in­clud­ing deep-fried mus­sels, pi­geon and prune ter­rine, slowroasted rab­bit with white bean puree, wild boar ragu with chest­nut gnoc­chi — will be matched with Tus­can wines (War­dens has won awards for its list of im­ported Ital­ian wine). Novem­ber 25, 32 Ford St, from mid­day; $190 a head. Book­ings es­sen­tial. www.war­

TEN­TER­FIELD tastes: The north­ern NSW town’s wines and food will be on show at the Ten­ter­field Food and Wine Fes­ti­val. Tick­ets $25 ($20 be­fore Oc­to­ber 31) in­clude a sou­venir wine glass and $10 in food and wine vouch­ers. Un­der 18s free. Novem­ber 3, 10am-4pm, at the Me­mo­rial Hall. www.ten­ter­field­foodand­

SAIL away with Peter Bowyer and chef Pacharin ‘‘ Air’’ Jantrakool, of Sailors Thai Can­teen in Syd­ney’s Rocks, to dis­cover au­then­tic Thai food in Chi­ang Mai. Eat, visit mar­kets, take cook­ing classes, with time al­lowed for shop­ping and spa vis­its. March 28-April 5, $3350 a per­son, Bangkok to Bangkok, cov­ers ac­com­mo­da­tion, lo­cal air fares and many of the meals. Air fare deals avail­able from Aus­tralia. More: (02) 9251 2466 or for book­ings: ju­lia@trav­

NEXT Sun­day, Novem­ber 4, will bring 16 Hunter Val­ley winer­ies, sup­ported by Syd­ney and re­gional restau­rants, to the Es­planade at Bal­moral Beach for the first Hunter Un­corked at Bal­moral event. www.un­

TRAVEL&In­dul­gence wine guru James Halliday has been awarded the Gold La­dle for best wine book at Le Cor­don Bleu World Food Me­dia Awards, pre­sented in Ade­laide, for JamesHal­l­i­day’sWineAt­la­sofAus­tralia.­food­me­di­

DE­TEC­TIVE loves: THE tri­umph of 91-yearold English au­thor of about 170 cook­books, Mar­guerite Patten, who last week won a Life­time Achieve­ment Award at Bri­tain’s an­nual Wo­man of the Year lunch at the In­terCon­ti­nen­tal Ho­tel Lon­don Park Lane. She pi­o­neered food tele­cast­ing post war (and pre­sented live). ‘‘ I was the first to cook on television, but I don’t think I’m a chef and I’m def­i­nitely not a celebrity,’’ she is re­ported as say­ing. ‘‘ I con­sid­ered my­self an in­former, giv­ing ad­vice to peo­ple. The prob­lem with celebrity chefs nowa­days is that the per­son­al­ity over­rides the food.’’ (She thinks Gor­don Ram­say ‘‘ prob­a­bly didn’t swear as much be­fore he started his pro­gram’’.)

DE­TEC­TIVE loathes: A note from reader Mark Werner adds to De­tec­tive ’ s loathed large plat­ters ( FD , Oc­to­ber 13-14): plates ‘‘ so long they don’t fit the set­tings; wait­ers fuss with cut­lery and re­move bread plates for space. Com­mon sense needs to pre­vail over the mod­ern de­sire to show off’’. While De­tec­tive has oc­ca­sion­ally been known to show off, she agrees.


Grape crop 1960: Domenica Zema

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