Capital territory around Canberra for grazing on fresh fodder
BORDER moves: chef Tom and partner Crystal Moore, owners of Sage Restaurant in Braddon, ACT, last week took over the licence at muchawarded restaurant Grazing, in the NSW border town of Gundaroo, a half hour’s drive from Canberra. People travel to come here, Crystal Moore tells FoodDetective, so the couple want to make Grazing the focus of a day out. Produce from the Canberra district will remain at the heart of the menu, matched with great regional wines. But Grazing is set on 0.8ha of land and the plan is to make the most of this abundance. (The website reports what’s in season in the kitchen garden: asparagus, Tuscan black kale, ruby chard. Expect ultra fresh.)
The next project will be to develop a range of home-grown house products. Then a cheese room. www.grazing.com.au.
DEVELOPMENTS at Grazing coincide with next weekend’s Wine, Roses and All That Jazz Festival at 26 Canberra district wineries and restaurants. (Grazing plans a Wine and Roses degustation menu.)
At the festival there’ll be winemaker talks, tours and demonstrations and gourmet regional fare such as handmade cheeses, olive oil and antipasti. And, of course, jazz and roses. November 3-4. www.canberrawines.com.au.
DIETMAR Sawyere, chef-restaurateur of Sydney’s Forty One, has announced the much anticipated reopening, on November 10, of Berowra Waters Inn, which he took over in late May. He tells Detective he wants to redefine himself at BWI, leaning more towards Mediterranean food than the haute cuisine of Forty One: diners will choose four, five or six from a degustation menu of about 12 entree-sized dishes. The Hawkesbury River venue is stunning, he says, so ‘‘ we didn’t want it all to be over in an entree, a main and a dessert’’.
Hawkesbury produce from the river and the farms will be central to the menu, and as organic as possible. www.berowrawatersinn.com.
OPINIONS on cheese? Cast your vote at Sydney’s Fromage du Monde. Tickets entitle holders to taste local and international cheeses, then vote for their favourite three. In its third year, this vast cheese picnic is organised by Jones the Grocer in conjunction with Porsche at its showrooms at 470 Gardeners Rd, Alexandria. Tomorrow, 11am-5pm. Tickets $15 from Jones the Grocer stores; $20 at the door. www.jonesthegrocer.com.
MARKET share. South Australia’s Clare Valley has its healthy quota. Local produce markets coming up are: Burra Market Day at Best Place, Burra North. Fruit, vegetables and produce, November 3, 9am-4pm. Clare Showgrounds Country Market, November 3-4, 8am to 12.30pm. Riverton Monthly Market, Community Hall, Riverton, November 10, 9am-1pm. www.clarevalley.com.au.
STILL in SA, the Zema family at Coonawarra’s Zema Estate winery will be celebrating its Italian heritage throughout November with Mrs Zema’s goodies (biscotti, panforte-style nut cake), New Norcia Bakery produce and gift boxes, complimentary wine tastings and the family history in photographs, at the cellar door. Daily, 9am-5pm. www.zema.com.au.
FEW do rustic Italian as well as Wardens Food and Wine at Beechworth in northern Victoria. At a Taste of Tuscany lunch, chef Douglas Elder’s sixcourse menu— including deep-fried mussels, pigeon and prune terrine, slowroasted rabbit with white bean puree, wild boar ragu with chestnut gnocchi — will be matched with Tuscan wines (Wardens has won awards for its list of imported Italian wine). November 25, 32 Ford St, from midday; $190 a head. Bookings essential. www.wardens.com.au.
TENTERFIELD tastes: The northern NSW town’s wines and food will be on show at the Tenterfield Food and Wine Festival. Tickets $25 ($20 before October 31) include a souvenir wine glass and $10 in food and wine vouchers. Under 18s free. November 3, 10am-4pm, at the Memorial Hall. www.tenterfieldfoodandwine.org.au.
SAIL away with Peter Bowyer and chef Pacharin ‘‘ Air’’ Jantrakool, of Sailors Thai Canteen in Sydney’s Rocks, to discover authentic Thai food in Chiang Mai. Eat, visit markets, take cooking classes, with time allowed for shopping and spa visits. March 28-April 5, $3350 a person, Bangkok to Bangkok, covers accommodation, local air fares and many of the meals. Air fare deals available from Australia. More: (02) 9251 2466 or for bookings: email@example.com.
NEXT Sunday, November 4, will bring 16 Hunter Valley wineries, supported by Sydney and regional restaurants, to the Esplanade at Balmoral Beach for the first Hunter Uncorked at Balmoral event. www.uncorked.hvva.com.au.
TRAVEL&Indulgence wine guru James Halliday has been awarded the Gold Ladle for best wine book at Le Cordon Bleu World Food Media Awards, presented in Adelaide, for JamesHalliday’sWineAtlasofAustralia. www.worldfoodmediaawards.com.
DETECTIVE loves: THE triumph of 91-yearold English author of about 170 cookbooks, Marguerite Patten, who last week won a Lifetime Achievement Award at Britain’s annual Woman of the Year lunch at the InterContinental Hotel London Park Lane. She pioneered food telecasting post war (and presented live). ‘‘ I was the first to cook on television, but I don’t think I’m a chef and I’m definitely not a celebrity,’’ she is reported as saying. ‘‘ I considered myself an informer, giving advice to people. The problem with celebrity chefs nowadays is that the personality overrides the food.’’ (She thinks Gordon Ramsay ‘‘ probably didn’t swear as much before he started his program’’.) www.woyla.co.uk.
DETECTIVE loathes: A note from reader Mark Werner adds to Detective ’ s loathed large platters ( FD , October 13-14): plates ‘‘ so long they don’t fit the settings; waiters fuss with cutlery and remove bread plates for space. Common sense needs to prevail over the modern desire to show off’’. While Detective has occasionally been known to show off, she agrees.
Grape crop 1960: Domenica Zema