Crab meat, green mango, tomato, cucumber, salmon roe, lime dressing ($19)
Soft polenta, poached organic egg, Testa Reggiana, shaved truffle, truffle oil ($32)
Seared salmon fillet, scallops, Yamba prawns, ratatouille, lemon fondue ($36)
Confit of Ashbury duck leg, rare duck breast, spinach, Pedro Ximenez ($38)
Valrhona chocolate ganache, chocolate sorbet ($18) crackling, foie gras, caramelised apple and citrus salad ($38): to me, a non-pig fancier, that sounds like the sort of thundering affair a French farmer would tackle with a bib and a hoe. But it is, apparently, a delicate and delicious dish and his arteries are in such remarkable shape that there’s space for pud.
A tarte tatin ($18) to divide with two forks seems the proper French finish: the apple is beautifully caramelised, the pastry is as buttery as can be and the cidery Calvados icecream a suitable homage to the apple orchards of Normandy.
All that’s missing this evening is a certain senior mermaid’s now-departed mother, who would have fancied arriving with a lorgnette at the refurbished Garden Court to inspect its surgical uplift. All Tables visits are unannounced and meals paid for.