The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

Crab meat, green mango, tomato, cu­cum­ber, salmon roe, lime dress­ing ($19)

Soft po­lenta, poached or­ganic egg, Testa Reg­giana, shaved truf­fle, truf­fle oil ($32)

Seared salmon fil­let, scal­lops, Yamba prawns, rata­touille, lemon fon­due ($36)

Con­fit of Ash­bury duck leg, rare duck breast, spinach, Pe­dro Ximenez ($38)

Val­rhona choco­late ganache, choco­late sor­bet ($18) crack­ling, foie gras, caramelised ap­ple and cit­rus salad ($38): to me, a non-pig fancier, that sounds like the sort of thun­der­ing af­fair a French farmer would tackle with a bib and a hoe. But it is, ap­par­ently, a del­i­cate and de­li­cious dish and his ar­ter­ies are in such re­mark­able shape that there’s space for pud.

A tarte tatin ($18) to di­vide with two forks seems the proper French fin­ish: the ap­ple is beau­ti­fully caramelised, the pas­try is as but­tery as can be and the cidery Cal­va­dos ice­cream a suit­able homage to the ap­ple or­chards of Nor­mandy.

All that’s miss­ing this evening is a cer­tain se­nior mer­maid’s now-de­parted mother, who would have fan­cied ar­riv­ing with a lorgnette at the re­fur­bished Gar­den Court to in­spect its sur­gi­cal up­lift. All Ta­bles vis­its are unan­nounced and meals paid for.

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