Cream of Cor­nish cot­tages

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - TRAVEL - Jen­nifer An­drews

HOL­I­DAY cot­tage ac­com­mo­da­tion in Corn­wall is a big in­dus­try, with many farm build­ings con­verted into cot­tages. How to choose? Luck­ily, we have been told of Tre­worgey Cot­tages, just north of Looe, where 30 years ago Be­vis and Linda Wright bought two ad­join­ing farm work­ers’ cot­tages and started to build a busi­ness that’s now five-star rated by Visit Bri­tain. But with the for­mi­da­ble com­pe­ti­tion they now face, the Wrights must stay one step ahead. They do, and it shows.

Deep in sun-dap­pled wood­land of an­cient beech and blue­bells, a fin­ger-post sign points us to Tre­worgey up a nar­row lane that af­ter about 2km opens into a mini ham­let. Each of the 17 stone cot­tages, once farm build­ings, hides be­hind walls that en­close lit­tle flower-filled gar­dens. Over­look­ing the East Looe river, the name Tre­worgey aptly de­scribes the spot: it’s Cor­nish for the place where the river flit­teth be­neath.

We ar­rive late in the af­ter­noon and have been told to look for our name on a board out­side the cot­tage gate; we find the key in an en­ve­lope on the door han­dle as di­rected and let our­selves into the one-bed­room Hol­ly­hock Cot­tage. We walk into a sun-filled sit­ting room and fling open the French win­dows, gaze down the val­ley and are soothed by coun­try sounds. Gen­uine an­tiques, Laura Ash­ley fab­rics, pol­ished floor­boards and tribal rugs help us feel richly at home. There’s a four-poster bed, lux­u­ri­ous bath, a basin set on an old wash­stand and sep­a­rate shower.

We have heard about Trawlers, a seafood restau­rant on the quay at Looe, and are lucky to get a ta­ble for din­ner. We are served by Be­vis and Linda’s daugh­ter Holly, who saw us ar­rive ear­lier as she was set­ting off for work. The meal is ex­cel­lent: a Cor­nish goat’s cheese salad and a crab risotto.

Next morn­ing, the sun is shin­ing and in the lane, where lit­tle traf­fic seems to pass, a mag­nif­i­cent rooster and his harem of hens are scratch­ing in the dust. Chil­dren ride ponies un­der the su­per­vi­sion of a young wo­man clad in bright pink jodh­purs, her black hair tamed by a pur­ple head­band. The col­lie, Meg, in­tently watches the ducks on the pond through the fence.

We have only three days and must make the most of our time here. Where to start? His­tory abounds: the scenery ranges from coastal coves to windswept moors and, if you’re lucky enough to be here in May, wood­lands are car­peted with blue­bells. His­tory first, we make a trip to Lan­hy­drock, a Na­tional Trust prop­erty with a lovely gar­den near Bod­min (worth a visit just for the amaz­ing kitchens).

Then we drive 12km to Bod­min Moor from Lan­hy­drock for its wild Stone Age at­mos­phere and open skies. An­other day we laze by Tre­worgey’s pool and walk to the stone cir­cle at Du­loe, hav­ing a pint af­ter­wards at Ye Olde Plough House, the lo­cal Du­loe pub. On the last evening we sam­ple its food and, feel­ing well in­dulged, wan­der down the lane be­fore bed, lis­ten­ing to the foxes in the val­ley. As we turn for home, a bad­ger crosses the road, its grey fur merg­ing with the dusk, the white stripes on its face as star­tling as the Queen Anne’s lace grow­ing in the hedgerow.

Sweet dreams: Hol­ly­hock Cot­tage

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