The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

SPARKLING wine grand mas­ter Ed Carr of Hardys has long since come to the con­clu­sion there is only one place in Aus­tralia to grow chardon­nay and pinot noir for ul­tra pre­mium sparkling wine, and that is Tas­ma­nia. Ar­ras, Jansz, Clover Hill, Kreglinger, Ste­fano Lu­biana, Do­maine Chan­don and Do­minique Portet all add weight to the propo­si­tion. Radenti isn’t en­tered in main­land wine shows but would ruf­fle the dove­cotes if it were. The 93 is still beau­ti­ful, three years on lees and years on cork em­bel­lish­ing that beauty. The latest re­lease, ’ 99 (96 points, $48), spent seven years on lees and is a mas­ter­piece, bring­ing nec­tarine, grape­fruit, white peach, brioche and fine creamy char­ac­ters on the im­mac­u­lately bal­anced palate, the flavours flow­ing, the fin­ish lin­ger­ing.­eycinetvine­ James Halliday

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