ALL these clubs have live music and serious dancing. Most serve food; all are closed on Sundays and some on Mondays. Entrance charges range from about $15 to $40. Rio Scenarium: This is a great place to start. Big place with a big heart; people of all ages. 20 rua do Lavradio; www.rioscenarium.com.br. Carioca da Gema: One of the first clubs to bring samba back to Lapa. 79 avenida Mem de Sa; www.barcariocadagema.com.br. Clube dos Democraticos: An 1867 ballroom now transformed by a young and enthusiastic crowd. 91 rua do Riachuelo. Centro Cultural Carioca: Stripped brick walls and huge windows create a modern industrial atmosphere. A place for serious aficionados. 237 rua de Setembro; www.centroculturalcarioca.com.br. Best tip: Have a look at www.lanalapa.com.br. The website is in Portuguese but you can pick up details of more bars and cafes. Carnival: This is a great time to be in Rio but expect hotel tariffs to double (at least). Book months in advance; Carnival in 2009 will run from February 21 to 25.