300g 1824 porterhouse or T-bone, cooked to order, with hand-cut chips, salsa verde and fetta and oreganostuffed tomato ($21.90; $24.90)
Grilled lamb backstrap with a warm sugar-snap peas and mint salad, tzatziki and flat bread ($22.50)
Upside-down polenta and nectarine cake ($10.50)
The Three Brothers Arms 40-42 Venables St, Macclesfield, Adelaide Hills, South Australia. (08) 8388 9265. Open: Seven days, lunch and dinner. Cost: About $40 to $50 a person for three courses; a $17 main, however, is more than likely to suffice. Drink: There is an excellent selection of beer and wine and a good list of wines by the glass. Reason to return: For that rare thing, a proper, old-fashioned, un-madeover pub serving restaurant-quality food.