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The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

300g 1824 porter­house or T-bone, cooked to or­der, with hand-cut chips, salsa verde and fetta and oreganos­tuffed tomato ($21.90; $24.90)

Grilled lamb back­strap with a warm sugar-snap peas and mint salad, tzatziki and flat bread ($22.50)

Up­side-down po­lenta and nec­tarine cake ($10.50)

Check­list

The Three Brothers Arms 40-42 Ven­ables St, Mac­cles­field, Ade­laide Hills, South Aus­tralia. (08) 8388 9265. Open: Seven days, lunch and din­ner. Cost: About $40 to $50 a per­son for three cour­ses; a $17 main, how­ever, is more than likely to suf­fice. Drink: There is an ex­cel­lent se­lec­tion of beer and wine and a good list of wines by the glass. Rea­son to re­turn: For that rare thing, a proper, old-fash­ioned, un-madeover pub serv­ing restau­rant-qual­ity food.

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