The Weekend Australian - Travel - - Indulgence -

MICHEL Roux is a grand old man of in­ter­na­tional cook­ery (though as young-look­ing as ever, de­spite the white hair). He be­gan mak­ing a name for him­self in Paris in 1963 with his first culi­nary award; at his Bri­tish restau­rant The Wa­ter­side Inn at Bray, he has held three Miche­lin stars for 22 years and there have been nu­mer­ous awards in be­tween.

His books and television pro­grams mean his name has reached far be­yond the lim­its of any restau­rant or lo­cal in­dus­try. Roux’s books— sev­eral with his brother Al­bert — are marked by scrupu­lous at­ten­tion to de­tail and tra­di­tion.

This latest, Eggs (Quadrille, dis­trib­uted by Hardie Grant, $24.95), shines the kitchen spot­light on that sim­ple yet most com­plex of in­gre­di­ents. With sump­tu­ous full-colour pho­tog­ra­phy by Martin Brig­dale, it de­tails the most so­phis­ti­cated egg dishes from ched­dar, sor­rel and an­chovy souf­fles, or lan­gous­tine souf­fles with shell­fish coulis, to gougeres and rasp­berry roulade.

All the cook­ing tech­niques are cov­ered (mol­let, poached, baked, etc), and the best egg dishes (omelets, souf­fles, crepes), as well as pas­tries, ice creams, sponges and more. There can be no ex­cuse for a badly scram­bled egg with th­ese de­tailed in­struc­tions and pho­to­graphs, which lead into the recipes, from Por­tuguese and In­dian-style to scram­bled eggs in small pota­toes with salmon eggs.

Michel Roux is among the visit­ing chefs in the Lang­ham Ho­tel’s mas­ter­class pro­gram next week­end, at Melbourne Food & Wine Fes­ti­val. Ju­dith Elen Food De­tec­tive — Page 7

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