A LITTLE FOOD FLIGHT READING
MICHEL Roux is a grand old man of international cookery (though as young-looking as ever, despite the white hair). He began making a name for himself in Paris in 1963 with his first culinary award; at his British restaurant The Waterside Inn at Bray, he has held three Michelin stars for 22 years and there have been numerous awards in between.
His books and television programs mean his name has reached far beyond the limits of any restaurant or local industry. Roux’s books— several with his brother Albert — are marked by scrupulous attention to detail and tradition.
This latest, Eggs (Quadrille, distributed by Hardie Grant, $24.95), shines the kitchen spotlight on that simple yet most complex of ingredients. With sumptuous full-colour photography by Martin Brigdale, it details the most sophisticated egg dishes from cheddar, sorrel and anchovy souffles, or langoustine souffles with shellfish coulis, to gougeres and raspberry roulade.
All the cooking techniques are covered (mollet, poached, baked, etc), and the best egg dishes (omelets, souffles, crepes), as well as pastries, ice creams, sponges and more. There can be no excuse for a badly scrambled egg with these detailed instructions and photographs, which lead into the recipes, from Portuguese and Indian-style to scrambled eggs in small potatoes with salmon eggs.
Michel Roux is among the visiting chefs in the Langham Hotel’s masterclass program next weekend, at Melbourne Food & Wine Festival. Judith Elen Food Detective — Page 7